These rules let you resolve combat using counters or figures on a hexagonal grid. They assume you have already mastered the combat system in Chapter 11, and cover only the exceptions and special cases that arise when using that system on a map.

FIGURES You need a marker or miniature figure to represent each combatant. This can be metal, plastic . . . even cardboard. These rules assume oneinch hexes, or a 50mm scale, for maps – but 25mm figures are easier to handle. Of course, you need not use figures! Any counter will do, as long as it has a “front” to indicate facing and some way to show when the fighter it represents is prone. Gamers who want the fun of detailed figures at the cost of cardboard counters should consider Cardboard Heroes, SJ Games’ line of upright cardboard figures.

THE COMBAT MAP Tactical combat uses a “combat map” marked off in hexagons, or hexes. Each one-inch hex on the map represents an area one yard across. At the start of combat, pick a suitable map, typically one you have drawn on a blank sheet of hexagon paper. HEXES One hex on the combat map represents one yard of distance. It is also the basic unit of movement: each hex a fighter moves represents one yard of movement. The number of hexes you can move on your turn depends on your Move score and your maneuver (see Maneuvers in Tactical Combat, p. 385). Each human-sized or smaller fighter must occupy one hex. Exceptions include close combat (see Close Combat, p. 391), swarms (see Swarm Attacks, p. 461), and situations in which people are crowded together but not fighting (you could cram up to four ordinary-sized humans into a single hex, if they were friendly).

A human-sized fighter who is lying down or who has the Horizontal disadvantage occupies two hexes; see Change Posture (below). Larger fighters also occupy more than one hex; see Multi-Hex Figures (p. 392). Treat a fractional hex (e.g., one cut in half by a wall) as if it were a full hex: you can move through it and occupy it without penalty, unless the GM rules otherwise. You can also move through an ally’s hex, although the movement cost is higher. You cannot move through or occupy a hex completely filled by a solid barrier (e.g., a pillar). FACING You must “face” toward one of the six hexes adjacent to your hex at all times. Your facing defines your front, right, left, and back hexes (see illustration). Your front hexes are the hexes you can see into and easily move into. You can move into any adjacent hex – but sideways and backward movement is slower. For a right-handed fighter, the right side is the “weapon side” and the left side is the “shield side.” For a lefthanded fighter, these are reversed.

MANEUVERS IN TACTICAL COMBAT Tactical combat uses the maneuvers described in Chapter 11 under Maneuvers (p. 363), but some of these have additional complications on a hex grid. Several of these notes refer to “movement points”; see Movement in Tactical Combat (p. 386) for details. Move You receive movement points equal to your Move. Change Posture If a human-sized fighter lies prone or has the Horizontal disadvantage, he takes up two hexes. If you lie down or are knocked prone, your lower half occupies the hex you were standing in and your upper half can occupy any adjacent hex. If you get up from a prone posture, you may choose to get up into either of your hexes. All-Out Attack You must move first and then attack – not vice versa. You may remain stationary, turn in place, or move forward. If you choose to move forward, you may move up to two hexes or expend movement points equal to half your Move (round up), whichever is more. You may not change facing at the end of your move. Move and Attack You receive movement points equal to your Move. All-Out Defense If you choose the Increased Dodge option, you may use movement points equal to half your Move (round up). Ready You can pick up an item that is in your own hex or any hex within your reach (usually one hex). Wait The greater precision of tactical combat on a hex grid allows many more options with this maneuver; see Wait Maneuver Strategy (below) and Opportunity Fire (p. 390). If you are waiting with a melee weapon, your weapon’s reach is crucial: a long weapon lets you strike a charging foe before he can get to you!

Wait Maneuver Strategy The Wait maneuver can be very useful in a tactical situation where you want to block a fleeing foe – or to protect someone behind you.

If you have taken a Wait maneuver, you can attack at any time – even in the middle of someone else’s movement! If you did not move at all on your turn, you may take a step (see The “Step” in Tactical Combat, p. 386) and then strike. If your foe is still standing after your blow falls, he may continue his movement.

This is the best way (and almost the only way) to keep a faster foe from running past you on a clear field. If you take another maneuver (for instance, to fight with someone else), you are distracted – and, on a one-second time scale, a faster foe should be able to run past you! But if you are waiting for him, you’ll have a chance to intercept him, or hit him, as he tries to go by.

MOVEMENT IN TACTICAL COMBAT

In tactical combat, movement is measured more precisely, on a hex-byhex basis, and a fighter’s facing becomes very important.

The “Step” in Tactical Combat Some maneuvers, such as Attack or Ready, allow you to take your usual step in any direction (see Step, p. 368). Each yard of step – usually one yard, for humans – equals one hex of movement. You may change facing freely before or after you move.

Movement Points An easy way to keep track of movement is to assume that a Move or Move and Attack maneuver gives you a number of “movement points” equal to your Move score; e.g., Move 5 would give you 5 movement points to use during a Move or Move and Attack. An All-Out Attack or All-Out Defense (Increased Dodge) maneuver gives half as many movement points, rounded up; e.g., Move 5 would give 3 movement points during these maneuvers. MOVEMENT AND FACING Movement and facing interact when you move as part of a Move, Move and Attack, All-Out Attack, or All-Out Defense (Increased Dodge) maneuver. Forward Movement and Facing It costs one movement point to enter each hex when moving forward. A “forward” move is a move into one of your three front hexes. If you go straight ahead, your facing will not change; otherwise it will change by one hex-side: you must turn to face the hex as you enter it (see illustration above). Thus, you can change direction while moving “forward.” Three consecutive hexes of “forward” movement let you run in a half-circle and end up facing the opposite direction (see illustration below). Backward and Sideways Movement and Facing If you take a Move, Move and Attack, or All-Out Defense (Increased Dodge) – but not an All-Out Attack – and don’t want to move forward, you can move backward (A) or sideways (B), keeping the same facing (see the illustration to the right). Each sideways or backward hex costs two movement points.

You can also “sidestep” into a front hex (C) while keeping your original facing. This is allowed during an All- Out attack (as well as on a Move, etc.). It also costs two movement points.

Movement Point Costs

Use these movement point costs when you take a Move, Move and Attack, All-Out Attack, or All-Out Defense (Increased Dodge) maneuver. You can always move at least one hex per turn, no matter how severe the penalties. Most other maneuvers allow a step (see Step, p. 368). In this case, “cost” does not matter – you can move your full step (usually one hex), regardless of facing, posture, or terrain.

Direction of Travel Forward: 1 movement point per hex. Sidestep or backward: 2 movement points per hex. Posture Crouching: +1/2 movement point per hex. Kneeling: +2 movement points per hex. Crawling: +2 movement points per hex. Lying down: All movement points to move one hex. Sitting: Cannot move! Facing Changes Change facing before or during a move: +1 movement point per hex-side of change. Change facing at end of move: Free! You may face any direction if you used no more than half your movement points; otherwise, you may opt to change facing by one hex-side. Obstructions Minor obstruction in hex (e.g., an ally, or a body on the ground): +1 movement point per obstruction. Severe obstruction in hex (several bodies, a barricade, etc.): You must either bypass the hex or jump over (see Jumping, p. 352). Enemy in hex: You must evade (see Evading, p. 368). Bad Footing Treacherous ground (mud, waxed floors, etc.): +1 movement point per hex (or more, at the GM’s option). Stairs (up or down): +1 movement point per hex. Shallow water (no more than 1/6 your height): +1 movement point per hex. Deeper water: All movement points to move 1 hex.

Facing Changes and Movement At the end of your turn, if you took a Move or Move and Attack maneuver and used no more than half of your movement points – or if you chose the All-Out Defense (Increased Dodge) maneuver – you may turn to face in any direction. If you took a Move or Move and Attack and used more than half of your movement points, you may change your facing by one hex-side. You may also change facing before or during your movement on a Move, Move and Attack, or All-Out Defense (Increased Dodge) maneuver, but this costs movement points. Each hex-side of facing change counts as one yard of movement; e.g., turning 180° costs three movement points.

ATTACKING IN TACTICAL COMBAT

Attacks work as described in Chapter 11, with the difference that a hex grid permits precise determination of range, facing, arc of vision, and area of effect. This calls for a few extra rules – especially for combat in the same hex as your foe (see Close Combat, p. 391). MELEE ATTACKS Normally, you can only attack into your front hexes. The distance at which you can attack depends on your weapon’s “reach.” Reach of a Weapon A melee weapon’s “reach,” as given on the Melee Weapon Table (p. 271), defines the hexes into which you can attack with it, as follows: Reach C (“Close”): You can strike only at targets in your own hex. Reach 1 (1 yard): You can strike into any hex marked “Front” in the diagram below. Reach 2 (2 yards): You can strike into any hex marked “2” in the diagram below. Reach 3 (3 yards): You can strike into any hex marked “3” in the diagram below. Most melee weapons have a oneyard reach, and can hit only your three front hexes. Some weapons have more than one reach. For instance, a knife can slash at “close” and one-yard reach. With a spear, you can have a reach of either one or two yards, depending on how you hold it. Larger pole weapons can have a reach of one, two, or three yards! Most weapons with a reach of two or more yards require a Ready maneuver to “change grips” and go from one reach to another. For instance, if you are holding a halberd with a grip that lets you strike three hexes away, you have to ready it for one turn before you can use it to strike someone one or two hexes away. A few balanced weapons (e.g., the greatsword and quarterstaff) let you attack at more than one reach without taking a Ready maneuver. The Melee Weapon Table shows which weapons require a grip change and which do not. Note that if you’re very large, your reach will increase – see Size Modifier and Reach (p. 402).

Long Weapon Tactics The Attack maneuver lets you step before or after you attack. Stepping after you attack in melee combat can give you the upper hand if your weapon has more reach than your opponent’s. Suppose you have a spear and your adversary has a broadsword. You could attack from two hexes away and then step back, ending your turn three hexes from your foe. Since his weapon has a one-hex reach, he could not reach you with an Attack, as the Attack maneuver limits him to a oneyard step (of course, a foe with Move 11 or higher could step farther). To strike back, he would have to take an All-Out Attack or a Move and Attack . . . either of which would restrict his defenses, leaving him open to your next attack! And even if he does get close enough to attack, you can always retreat when you defend . . .

Attacking Through an Occupied Hex You can attack “through” someone else in melee if you are using a weapon with a reach of two yards or more. You may attack through a friend at no penalty (this is a basic part of your training with any long weapon). If you attack through an enemy’s hex, the penalty is -4. If your attack passes along a line between two hexes, there is no penalty unless both hexes are occupied. If they are, treat the situation as a single occupied hex – friendly, unless foes occupy both hexes. Wild Swings A Wild Swing is a melee attack against a foe to your side (left or right) or back, or against a foe you can’t see. It’s unlikely to hit, but sometimes it’s better than nothing.

A Wild Swing is at -5 to hit or the current visibility penalty, whichever is worse, and your effective skill cannot exceed 9 after all modifiers. You cannot target a particular part of the foe’s body; if using hit locations, roll randomly. A Wild Swing need not be a swing – it could be a thrust. However, you cannot make a “wild thrust” at a distance of more than one yard. You can combine a Wild Swing with an All-Out Attack, but you may not choose the “Determined” option to get +4 to hit to offset the Wild Swing penalty. You can also make a Wild Swing during a Move and Attack; use the more severe penalties of the two. If you have Peripheral Vision (p. 74), two-handed melee attacks into your right and left hexes, and onehanded attacks to the same side (e.g., right hand to right hex), are not Wild Swings. However, one-handed attacks to the opposite side (e.g., right hand to left hex), and attacks on foes behind you, are still Wild Swings. If you have 360° Vision (p. 34), no attack to your sides or back is a Wild Swing – but attacks to the back and opposite side at -2 due to the clumsy angle of attack. Note that some martial-arts techniques (e.g., Back Kick, p. 230) allow you to attack foes behind you without making a Wild Swing. RANGED ATTACKS Ranged combat on a hex grid also requires a few additional rules. Arc of Vision If you have a ranged weapon, you can attack into any of the white hexes in the diagram above. If you have Peripheral Vision (p. 74), you can attack into any of the white or gray hexes. And if you have 360° Vision (p. 34), you can attack into any of the white, gray, or black hexes. In all three cases, the hexes you can attack into define your “arc of vision.” Shooting Blind If you have a ranged weapon, you may attack someone outside your arc of vision – or in total darkness, or while blinded – by “shooting blind.” Use the rules for Wild Swings (above), but the penalty is -10 and your effective skill cannot exceed 9 after all modifiers. (As Murphy’s Law predicts, you are often less likely to hit your target than anyone else in the vicinity; see Hitting the Wrong Target, below.) Needless to say, you cannot take the Aim maneuver! Firing Through an Occupied Hex You can target an enemy if you can draw a straight line between any part of your hex and any part of his without passing through a solid obstacle. Use a straightedge (such as a ruler) to determine this. However, if your chosen straight line passes through an occupied hex, the occupants of that hex are “in the way.” You may hit them if you miss your intended target – see Hitting the Wrong Target, below. Anyone in the way (friend or foe) gives you a -4 penalty. If your attack passes through several occupied hexes, apply this penalty for each person in the way! If your attack passes along a line between two hexes, there is no penalty unless both hexes are occupied. If they are, treat it as a single hex penalty (-4). Someone lying down is never “in the way” unless you, too, are on the ground. Someone kneeling or sitting is not in the way unless either you or your target is also kneeling or sitting. These rules assume human-sized or smaller combatants. A fighter with a Size Modifier 2 or more greater than yours (3 or more if he’s kneeling or has the Horizontal disadvantage, 4 or more if he’s prone) completely blocks your line of sight – you can’t shoot past him – unless you’re higher up. Hitting the Wrong Target If you attack with a ranged weapon and miss, you may hit someone else. You must check for this if you fail your attack roll. You may hit anyone – friend or foe – if he was in your line of fire. To determine this, check the line along which you attacked. Any hex this line passes through is “in the way.” Combatants who are kneeling or lying down are not in the way unless you, too, are at their level. Because hitting the wrong target is a matter of pure chance, your attack roll against each possible target is the same: a flat 9 or the number you would have had to roll to hit him on purpose, whichever is worse.

Roll first for the target closest to you. If you miss, or if that target dodges, roll for the next target. And so on. Keep rolling until you hit, or someone blocks or parries your attack, or you run out of targets. If your attack went along a line between two occupied hexes, roll randomly to see which one you check first. Anyone (friend or foe) gets the same defense against this attack that he would have had had your attack been intentional.

Pop-Up Attacks A “pop-up attack” is a special Attack maneuver in which you emerge from cover, move no more than one hex, make a ranged attack, and return to cover – all in the space of one turn! Examples include ducking around a corner or a tree, or out of a trench. This is possible with any thrown weapon, firearm, or crossbow, but not with a bow or a sling. You cannot aim a pop-up attack. In fact, there is an extra -2 to hit because you couldn’t see your target at the beginning of your turn. Note that when you emerge from cover to attack, anyone targeting your hex with opportunity fire can attack you. If so, your only legal defense is a dodge.

Overshooting and Stray Shots If you make your attack roll but your foe blocks or parries successfully, assume your weapon or missile hits the ground. It has no chance of hitting anyone. If your foe dodges, however, the projectile goes past him and may hit someone else. Proceed as for Hitting the Wrong Target, above, but start with the closest target on the other side of your foe. (You already know you didn’t hit anybody between you and your foe, or he would not have had to defend.) Opportunity Fire If you have a ranged weapon, you may watch a specified area and attack as soon as a target presents itself. This is called “opportunity fire.” To use opportunity fire, you must take the Wait maneuver. You must stand still and watch for a target in a specified area. You must face the area you are “covering.” You may do nothing else. If a target appears in the specified area, you must attack it (you can try to discriminate, but this will give a penalty to hit – see below). Your attack takes place immediately. If two or more people are taking opportunity fire at the same target, assume that their attacks are simultaneous. If no target appears, you simply wasted your turn! All of the area to be “covered” must be within your arc of vision (see p. 389). The larger the area you have to watch, the greater the penalty when you attack: Hexes Watched Attack Penalty 1 0 2 -1 3-4 -2 5-6 -3 7-10 -4 11+ -5 You may also specify a single straight line, and say that you will fire at the first target that crosses the line. The penalty for this kind of opportunity fire is only -2. When you attack, apply the appropriate penalty above as well as all relevant ranged-combat modifiers. You cannot claim any of the bonuses listed for the Aim maneuver (p. 364). Exception: If you watch a single hex (only), you can Aim and Wait. Each second you wait for a target also counts as an Aim maneuver, and you will get the normal bonus for that amount of aiming when you finally attack. The GM should make sure that players carefully specify the area they are watching for opportunity fire. In conflicts between PCs, the players should tell the GM in secret so that their opponents do not know where they are planning to fire. Target Discrimination: Normally, when you take opportunity fire, you must attack the first target that appears in the designated area – friend or foe! You are free to specify that you are not attacking automatically, usually to avoid shooting a friend. If so, the GM will make a Vision roll for you when a target appears and tell you whether you think it is friend or foe. However, you have an extra -2 to hit because of the time you spent deciding.

DEFENDING IN TACTICAL COMBAT

Active defenses work as described in Chapter 11, with a few additional rules. Defending Against Attacks from the Side Against an attack that comes from one of your side hexes, you defend at -2 unless you have Peripheral Vision (p. 74) or 360° Vision (p. 34). Regardless of those advantages: • If you have a shield, you cannot block an attack that comes from your weapon side, only one that comes from your shield side. • If you have a one-handed melee weapon, you cannot parry an attack that comes from the other side of your body, only one that comes from the same side, unless your weapon arm has the Extra-Flexible enhancement or you possess the Double-Jointed advantage.

“Runaround” Attacks A fast-moving fighter can sometimes start in front of a foe and run behind him to strike from his back hex. Against a true attack from behind, no active defense is possible, because the victim did not know the attack was coming. If the attacker starts in front and runs behind, outmaneuvering his victim through sheer speed, the victim does know he’s being attacked. Treat it as a side attack: -2 to active defenses, unless the victim has compensating advantages.

Defending Against Attacks from the Back Against an attack that comes from your back hex, you cannot defend at all unless you have Peripheral Vision (which lets you defend at -2) or 360° Vision (which lets you defend at no penalty). Even if you have one of those advantages, you have an extra -2 to parry an attack from behind, and cannot block at all, unless your weapon or shield arm has the Extra-Flexible enhancement or you have the Double- Jointed advantage. Retreating A retreat takes you one step – normally one hex – directly away from the foe you are defending against. You cannot retreat into an occupied hex. You may change facing by one hexside, if you wish, as you retreat.

CLOSE COMBAT

“Close combat” is any situation in which you occupy the same hex as your foe or try to move through his hex. Use the rules given under Evading (p. 368) and Unarmed Combat (p. 370) in Chapter 11, but with the additions below. ENTERING A FOE’S HEX You may move or step into an enemy’s hex using any maneuver that allows you enough movement to enter that hex. You are in “close combat” as soon as you enter an opponent’s hex, regardless of your maneuver or that of your foe. If you take a Move, Move and Attack, or All-Out Attack maneuver, you can always run into a foe’s hex and stop there, facing him. If you do not wish to stop, you must attempt to evade (p. 368) or slam (p. 368) your foe – your choice, within the limits of your maneuver. When you enter an enemy-occupied hex, you occupy half the hex. You have the half of the hex from which you entered; he has the other half. To enter any of your front hexes on the enemy’s side, you have to “move through” him by evading. Evading in Tactical Combat To evade a foe, you must have enough movement points not only to enter his hex, but also to leave his hex! If your movement ends in his hex, you cannot evade on that turn. LEAVING A FOE’S HEX If you start your turn in a foe’s hex and he isn’t grappling you, you can move out of the hex through any of the three hexes on your side of the hex. If you do this using a Move or Move and Attack, you must spend movement points to change facing, sidestep, or step backward. To use forward movement to leave through one of the three hexes on your foe’s side, you must evade him (see above). If you take a maneuver that allows a step, you can step out of the hex and attack, feint, etc. with a one-hex reach weapon – or you can make a closecombat attack and then step out – but your step can only take you into one of the three hexes on your side of the hex. If your foe has grappled you, you may still choose a maneuver on your turn, but you cannot leave the hex until you break free (see Actions After Being Grappled, p. 371). WEAPONS FOR CLOSE COMBAT You can only use small, easily managed weapons in close combat. You can attack with any melee weapon with reach “C.” If using a ranged weapon, ignore the usual speed/range penalty and apply the weapon’s Bulk statistic as a penalty to hit. READYING IN CLOSE COMBAT You must make a DX roll to ready a weapon in close combat. If you fail, you still take a Ready maneuver but you accomplish nothing. If you have the Fast-Draw skill, you must make two rolls: the DX roll above and a Fast- Draw roll to get your weapon quickly. If you fail the Fast-Draw roll, you ready the weapon but it takes a full Ready maneuver.

DEFENSE IN CLOSE COMBAT You can dodge normally in close combat. You can only parry using an empty hand or a weapon with reach “C” (e.g., a knife). You cannot block at all! You can retreat (see p. 377) in close combat, if you aren’t being grappled. Simply step out of close combat and into any of the three hexes on your side of the close-combat hex. This gives the usual bonus to your active defense roll. Shields in Close Combat A shield becomes a potentially deadly nuisance in close combat. It still provides its Defense Bonus, but it hampers you while you wear it. Any attack you make in close combat – except for the initial slam, attack, etc. when you first move into the foe’s hex – has a penalty equal to the Defense Bonus of your shield! Any DX roll you attempt in close combat after your first turn of close combat has the same penalty. It takes a one-turn Ready maneuver and a successful DX roll to get rid of your shield in close combat. MULTIPLE CLOSE COMBAT Any number of people may participate in close combat in the same hex. This is easy to depict with flat counters, but it can be difficult to show with 3D figures – especially if some fighters are standing and others are lying down. A good compromise is to allow a fighter to declare himself in close combat with an opponent while still in an adjacent hex. Up to two fighters may combine their efforts in a takedown attempt against a single foe; up to three may work together in a pin attempt against a single foe. In either case, use the ST, DX, or grappling skill of the attacker with the best score, and add 1/5 (round down) of the score of each of his helpers.

Striking Into a Close Combat If you are not in close combat yourself, you may help allies who are in close combat by standing outside the close-combat hex and attacking an enemy who is in close combat with them. Your attack is at -2, plus any modifier for the target’s posture (lying down, for instance). If you hit, your foe may only defend as explained in Defense in Close Combat. If you miss, or your foe successfully dodges, you may hit someone else – friend or foe – in the hex. If there is more than one possible target, roll randomly to see who you “attack” first. Your attack roll is a flat 9 or the number you would have had to roll to hit him on purpose, whichever is worse. If you hit, the victim may attempt any legal closecombat defense. Keep rolling until you run out of targets or you actually hit someone.

MULTI-HEX FIGURES Giants, large animals, monsters, vehicles, etc. often occupy more than one hex. It can be helpful to make multi-hex counters or, if using figures, to cut cardboard bases of the appropriate size. The head or front of a multi-hex figure controls its movement. Handle distance moved, direction of movement, and facing exactly as if the creature’s head were a normal onehex figure. The rest of the body follows. This might mean, for instance, that a dragon’s head moves only 3 hexes while its tail sweeps through 10. That’s all right – and it’s a good way for the dragon to knock people over. A multi-hex figure cannot fit through a map space narrower than its widest point. However, the GM should be lenient in allowing large figures to overlap walls and the like. Remember that when a hex is cut by a straight wall, etc., a partial hex counts as a full hex. Arc of Vision The head of a multi-hex creature determines its arc of vision. This does mean that much of a large creature’s body may fall outside its own arc of vision! However, many large creatures also have Peripheral Vision (p. 74). Front, Side, and Back Hexes Each multi-hex creature has front, right, left, and back hexes, corresponding to those of a human (see illustration). Slam and Overrun When a figure two or more hexes in size moves through a smaller one, treat it as a slam (see Slam, p. 371). This gives the small figure a chance to get out of the way. If it fails to do so, it will probably be knocked down! The larger figure can keep right on moving unless it is itself knocked down.

This is the end of the file.