====== Defenses ====== * Defenses * Clothing * Armor and Protective Gear * Body Armor * Tailoring Armor * Rigid Body Armor * Shields * Environmental Gear and Suits * Powered Suits * Exoskeletons * Battlesuits * Defense Systems * Other Defenses * Force Fields * Force Screens * Force Shields * Nuclear Dampers * Stasis Webs * Other Force Fields * Stealth and Camouflage * Camouflage * Stealth Clothing insulates the wearer from the elements; armor protects him from injury. Both suffer from the vagaries of fashion, and there are endless cultural variations. Adventurers need such protection, though – from tunic and cloak to the armor and shield of a Roman legionary or a medieval knight. ===== Clothing ===== Sun and cold can be as lethal as swords and arrows. Dressing like a member of a hated social group can likewise be fatal! Canny adventurers choose their wardrobe carefully. Note that many costs here depend on knowing Cost of Living (pp. B265-266). ==== Everyday Clothing ==== Low-tech clothing falls into two classes: wrapped and sewn. Examples of wrapped garments are the loincloth, kilt, toga, and sarong. Sewn ones include tunics, doublets, and breeches. Many articles are fastened with pins and cords rather than buttons and buckled belts. Virtually every culture has its own version of the tunic, cloak, cape, and mantle. Dress outfits and noble attire are usually more elaborate versions of everyday clothes, with something extra to denote status (see Clothing and Status, p. 99). === Summer Clothing === This is lightweight clothing: the thin, white Arabian thobe; the pleated linen kalasiris of ancient Egypt; an Indian sari made from cotton; or perhaps a loincloth or a grass skirt. It’s light, comfortable, and cool. In hot weather, loose clothes allow air to circulate and cool the body. Costs 10% of cost of living; weighs 1 lb. === Ordinary Clothing === Typical work wear or everyday dress for a temperate climate. It’s usually made of heavier material than summer clothing; it may simply be an extra layer worn over the top. Even this much clothing may increase FP costs in hot climates, as described under Fighting a Battle (p. B426). Costs 20% of cost of living; weighs 2 lbs. === Winter Clothing === This is outdoor clothing for colder climates. In freezing temperatures, it allows a HT roll at no penalty to avoid FP loss (see p. B430). It may be as simple as adding an extra layer to ordinary clothing or it may consist of heavy textiles or furs, but it must protect the whole body against heat loss – particularly feet, hands, head, and neck. If there are missing items, the GM may penalize HT rolls with the -1 per item recommended on p. B345. Winter clothing is heavy enough to provide limited protection against weapons: DR 1 vs. cutting. Costs 30% of cost of living; weighs 5 lbs. ==== Hand and Footwear ==== Ordinary and winter clothing include basic footwear in their cost and weight. Winter clothing includes basic hand wear, too. Such articles can be added to outfits that don’t include them, or be bought in superior versions for those that do. Custom-tailored shoes and boots can give skill bonuses. Articles made expressly for climbing give +1 to Climbing skill; similar bonuses are possible for skills like Hiking or Running. Buy such items as good quality: +4 CF; weight is unchanged. === Foot Wrappings (TL0) === The earliest foot protection was likely large, tough leaves or pieces of hide wrapped around the foot and bound with lacing. This would keep the feet warm while providing a little protection for the soles. Foot wrappings aren’t very durable and need replacing every few miles. Minimal foot protection: $2, 0.5 lb. More complete wrappings that cover the lower leg as well: $10, 2 lbs. === Mittens (TL0) === The earliest mittens were simple bags covering the hands to keep them warm. They probably consisted of fur offcuts, bound at the wrist. The oldest iconographic evidence dates to the mid-second millennium B.C., and depicts two Minoan youths boxing with padded hand protection. It is unclear whether these mittens had separate thumbs, as is common with modern ones. Mittens are clumsy, giving the wearer Bad Grip 1 (p. B123) and Ham-Fisted 2 (p. B138). (Armor designed for the hands – gauntlets – gives Ham-Fisted but not Bad Grip.) Basic mittens afford DR 1 vs. cutting: $8, 0.5 lb. Lightly padded boxing mitts (such as the Minoan example) give DR 1 vs. all damage: $20, 1 lb. === Moccasins (TL0) === Light, thin leather footwear preferred by hunters and other people who must move quietly. Use the same statistics for any light, functional shoe; e.g., Japanese tabi. Like bare feet, they give +1 to Stealth. DR 1*. $40, 1 lb. === Mukluks (TL0) === Soft boots made of moose or caribou hide lined with moss. They protect the feet against frostbite and erase -2 in Stealth penalties for walking on snow. DR 1*. $50, 2 lbs. === Sandals (TL0) === These are the footwear of choice in warmer climates. Their open construction consists of a hard sole with straps to bind it to the foot. Sandals give the underside of the foot DR 1. $25, 0.5 lb. === Hobnails (TL2) === Roman military sandals (caligae) were hobnailed. Adding hobnails to footwear increases cost by $25, weight by 1 lb.; e.g., hobnailed sandals are $50, 1.5 lbs. This improves the wearer’s footing, letting him ignore the -2 to attacks and -1 to defenses for bad terrain, but gives -1 to Stealth on tiled floors, cobblestones, bare rock, etc. === Gloves (TL1) === Gloves differ from mittens in having a separate sheath for each finger, allowing finer motor control. Early Greek and Roman texts record their use, but they were likely worn even earlier. Even fingered gloves hamper dexterity a little, giving the wearer Bad Grip 1 (p. B123) and Ham-Fisted 1 (p. B138). Gloves with open palms (same cost) negate Bad Grip but don’t protect against cold. Good-quality gloves (+4 CF) specifically tailored to the wearer reduce the DX penalty to -1. DR 1* vs. cutting. $15, 0.5 lb. === Shoes (TL1) === Shoes are any light leather or textile footwear that covers the foot but doesn’t protect the leg. Low-tech shoes aren’t carefully tailored, and there’s no such thing as a left/right pair. Shape depends on the fashion of the time; some are pointed while others are square-toed. They may simply slip onto the foot (slippers), or be fastened with lacing or buckles. DR 1. $40, 2 lbs. === Boots (TL2) === Boots are similar to shoes but made of thicker material, and longer, protecting part of the lower leg. With the advent of the stirrup, the riding boot sometimes had a heel to prevent the foot slipping through. DR 2. $80, 3 lbs. ==== HEADGEAR ==== Headgear is often included in a society’s everyday clothing. Don’t count its price and weight separately, except as specified below. === Hats (TL0) === Hats come in all shapes and forms. Invented to protect the wearer from the elements, they quickly became fashion symbols and often denoted status. In extreme weather, a hat is crucial to survival. A hat specifically designed to resist damage is called a helmet (see Helmets, pp. 111-113). === Hoods (TL0) === Some articles of clothing – e.g., cloaks and parkas – have an integrated hood that can be pulled up to cover the head as needed. Adding a hood where one isn’t otherwise noted increases base clothing cost and weight by 10%. ==== Clothing and Status ==== In most cultures, attire broadcasts social status. The quality of the fabric and the cut of the tailoring are often good indicators. Then there are specific badges, such as the purple toga-stripe of the Roman senator, or the ermine worn by European royalty. In some circumstances, a person couldn’t hold a particular position without wearing suitable finery, and sumptuary laws (see Luxuries, p. 36) were rigorously enforced to prevent lower classes from dressing above their station. GURPS links clothing with Status – a person’s cost of living (pp. B265-266) determines the price of his clothes. The Basic Set doesn’t increase the tailor’s bill after Status 3, but this isn’t appropriate in low-tech societies. A Status 7 ruler dresses far more richly than any Status 3 lord! Use cost of living to determine clothing costs for any Status. Example: King Olaf (Status 7) has a $60,000,000 cost of living. A suitable set of summer attire costs 10% of this amount, or $6,000,000. It might incorporate the finest gem-studded cloth, the most expensive embroidery and threads, and appropriate jewelry and regalia. ==== Protective Clothing ==== These garments afford the wearer some sort of protection – perhaps from the weather or work-related injuries. They may have some value in battle, but that isn’t their primary purpose. === Cloak (TL0) === Cloaks (p. B287) are usually fastened about the neck with a cord or a clasp. Some are split to assist riding; others have armholes or even sleeves, and resemble ponchos (below). A cloak is versatile – it provides protection from the elements, will suffice as a sleeping blanket, and can serve as a makeshift tent. It can help to conceal items (+4 to Holdout). It can even be used to defend actively against attack. The simplest method is to wrap it around one arm and use it to ward off blows (a Block with the Cloak skill; see p. B184). Held out in front like a curtain, a heavy cloak stands a good chance of absorbing a light ranged weapon’s impact (see Arrow Curtains, p. 104). A cloak costs 10% of cost of living and weighs 2 lbs. A heavy one made from wool or leather provides DR 1 vs. cutting, costs 15% of cost of living, and weighs 3 lbs. === Parka (TL0) === A parka is a hooded, long-sleeved coat made from two layers of hide. The inner layer has inward-facing fur to trap heat. The outer layer can be waterproofed; see Wet-Weather Gear (below). Worn over winter clothing (p. 98) to protect against arctic conditions, it gives +5 to HT rolls to avoid FP or HP loss due to freezing temperatures (see p. B430). This combination is also thick enough to provide +1 DR vs. all attacks, but the layering results in the -1 DX penalty explained under Layered Armor (p. 103). $100, 10 lbs. === Poncho (TL0) === At its simplest, this is simply a blanket with a hole in it for the head. It can act as regular clothing or be worn as an extra layer to resist cold, but it hampers the arms somewhat (-1 DX when using the arms). Because of their bulk, ponchos – like cloaks – grant +4 to Holdout to conceal gear on the body. Cost and weight are as for ordinary clothing (p. 98). === Snow Goggles (TL0) === Made of wood with narrow eye-slits, these protect against snow-blindness. Vision is at -3. DR 1. $15, 1 lb. === Wet-Weather Gear (TL0) === Rain and spray can reduce clothing’s effectiveness in cold weather (see Cold, p. B430). A waterproofed cloak, parka, or poncho can be worn over clothing to keep the wearer dry. Waterproofing agents include beeswax, vegetable oil, animal fat, tree pitch, and lacquer. Waterproofing increases the basic garment’s cost by $50, weight by 1 lb. === Leather Apron (TL1) === Craftsmen such as blacksmiths and stonemasons often wear leather aprons to protect themselves and their clothes. These are flexible, but thick enough to resist light damage. A leather apron covers the front, protecting the torso except for the very top (protects on 1-5 on 1d), and the upper legs (protects on 4-6); see the Armor Locations Table (p. 100). DR 1. $60, 3 lbs. === Long Coat (TL1) === This is a trench coat, duster, overcoat, kaftan, or similar item that covers the torso and extends to the knees or below. It can conceal bulky items (+4 to Holdout), but may look out of place in some situations. $50, 5 lbs. A leather or heavy felt version provides DR 1: +4 CF, double weight. Even heavier leather variants were worn as armor and called “buff coats” during the English Civil War; treat these as armor (see Hide, p. 104). === Undercover Clothing (TL2) === Clothing designed to hide things gives a Holdout bonus. This may be accomplished through a special cut, hidden pockets, loops, reinforcements, panels, etc. An outfit that gives +1 (quality) to Holdout adds +4 CF; one that gives +2 (quality) adds +19 CF. === Beekeeper’s Outfit (TL3) === Medieval illustrations depict an ankle-length garment (probably linen or hemp canvas) with long sleeves and bloused gloves. A hood covers the head and shoulders, and a circular mesh protects the face for complete body coverage. This outfit isn’t heavy enough to turn blows (DR 0), but it will resist insect swarms (p. B461). $80, 5 lbs. === Fireproof Clothing (TL3) === Moslem sources record the use of fireproofing by soldiers who employed incendiaries on the battlefield. Exposed skin was protected by a paste of vinegar, red clay, dissolved talc, fish glue, and sandarac. Clothing was sometimes coated in this concoction, too – and brave warriors would occasionally don such garb, set themselves ablaze, and ride into the enemy to cause havoc! This long-sleeved and hooded garment of treated heavy wool, similar to the woolen garment used by firefighters until the 20th century, gives DR 4 vs. burning. $150, 6 lbs. ===== Armor ===== Armor doesn’t seem to have been used until the beginning of the Bronze Age, when warfare became organized (see GURPS Low-Tech Companion 2). Helmets and shields appeared first, followed by body armor. Armor design has always been a tradeoff between protection and ease of movement. Through most of history, the military elite equipped themselves with heavy armor. The rest of the army sometimes wore lighter armor and occasionally had nothing but a shield. Even very light armor can help to protect a warrior from many attacks and incidental injuries. Heavy armor can render him nearly immune to battlefield threats, although it’s fatiguing to wear (see Armor Fatigue, p. 101). === Armor Legality === Like weapons, armor has variable Legality Class (pp. B267, B507). If it could be categorized as “clothing,” but has some protective benefit, it’s LC4 – or maybe LC3. If it would only be worn for combat, it’s LC2 or even LC1. Shields are usually LC3: they are intended for combat, but cheap enough that a militia might be expected to own them. ==== ARMOR LOCATIONS TABLE ==== The Armor Table (pp. 110-111) gives costs and weights for armor for the entire torso. Use the table below to find cost and weight for armor for other hit locations. For armor that covers only half of a location – e.g., “front only,” like a breastplate – halve the cost and weight of armor for that area. Do the same for just one arm, leg, hand, foot, etc. Example: The Armor Table lists a light mail vest as $500, 12 lbs. Long sleeves for all of both arms (50%) are $250, 6 lbs.; leggings for both legs (100%) are $500, 12 lbs. Mail for both hands (10%) is $50, 1.2 lbs.; ditto for both feet (10%). Total: $1,350, 32.4 lbs. The same percentages can be used to calculate other figures; e.g., manufacture time (see GURPS Low-Tech Companion 3) and donning time (see Donning Armor, p. 102). All pieces can be worn separately – groin (codpiece), shoulder (pauldron), elbow (couter), forearm (bracer), knee (poleyn), shin (greave), etc. ^ Location ^ Cost and Weight ^ Hit Location ^ Notes ^ | Head | 30% | 3-5 | [1] | | Skull | 20% | 3-4 | | | Face | 10% | 5 | | | Neck | 5% | 17-18 | | | Torso | 100% | 9-11 | [2, 3] | | Chest | 75% | 9-10 | [2] | | Abdomen | 25% | 11 | [2, 4] | | Groin | 5% | – | | | Arms | 50% | 8, 12 | [5] | | Shoulders | 10% | – | [6] | | Upper Arms | 10% | – | [7] | | Elbows | 5% | – | [8] | | Forearms | 25% | – | [9] | | Hands | 10% | 15 | | | Legs | 100% | 6-7, 13-14 | [10] | | Thighs | 45% | – | [11] | | Knees | 5% | – | [8] | | Shins | 50% | – | [9] | | Feet | 10% | 16 | | === Notes === * [1] Includes skull and face. * [2] Roll 1d; on 1, the vitals are hit. * [3] Includes chest and abdomen; see pp. 102-103. * [4] Includes groin. * [5] Include shoulders, upper arms, elbows, and forearms, but not hands. * [6] Roll 1d; on 6, the armor is hit.* * [7] Roll 1d; on 5, the armor is hit.* * [8] Roll 1d; on 4, the armor is hit.* * [9] Roll 1d; on 1-3, the armor is hit.* * [10] Include thighs, knees, and shins, but not feet. * [11] Roll 1d; on 5-6, the armor is hit.* * Partial limb armor provides only partial protection! Roll 1d once to see whether an attack hits armor. For an arm: (1-3) forearm; (4) elbow; (5) upper arm; (6) shoulder. For a leg: (1-3) shin; (4) knee; (5-6) thigh. ==== Blunt Trauma and Edged Weapons ==== Realistically, it’s extremely difficult for a blade edge to cut through any sort of armor. Most damage to armored opponents is in the form of blunt trauma. Here’s an optional rule to reflect this: Roll damage and determine whether the blow can put at least 1 point of penetrating damage past twice the armor’s DR. If it can’t, then treat the cutting attack as merely crushing – that is, simply subtract the armor’s usual DR from damage to get injury. Such injury doesn’t actually slice through the armor, and is equivalent to blunt trauma. If the blow can penetrate twice the armor’s DR, then use the rules for cutting attacks as written – subtract the armor’s usual DR from damage and then multiply by 1.5 to find injury – and assume that the armor (and flesh!) is cut. Example: Sir Gnaff is wearing DR 7 plate. He’s hit by Conan the Bar’s sword for 14 points of cutting damage. Twice DR 7 is 14, so the blow fails to penetrate and is considered crushing. Thus, it inflicts 14 - 7 = 7 HP of injury. If Conan were using poison, it would be useless; the blow merely dented the armor. If Conan had rolled 15, this would have been enough to penetrate twice DR 7. Penetrating damage would have been 15 - 7 = 8 points, and cutting injury would have been 8 x 1.5 = 12 HP. . . and if Conan’s sword were poisoned, the venom would have a chance to work. For more on wounding and blunt trauma, see p. B379. This rule applies only to armor, not to other forms of DR (e.g., Tough Skin). ==== My Armor Doesn’t Fit! ==== Most low-tech armor is custom-tailored for the owner. If an adventurer acquires a piece of armor that wasn’t designed for him, he’ll suffer -1 to DX and -1 to DR while wearing it, because it doesn’t fit correctly. This can be fixed by a craftsman with Armoury (Body Armor) and suitable tools. It takes an hour of labor and a successful Armoury roll at +2 to alter the armor for its new owner. Failure simply means that the DR and DX penalties remain, but critical failure destroys the armor. The GM may make exceptions for extremely flexible armor, remarkably similar wearers (twins, clones, etc.), and other special cases. He may also exempt cheap munitions armor, which is specifically designed to fit a range of body sizes; see Armor of Quality (p. 109). Removing the integrated padding from armor might save a little weight (GM’s option), but will result in the above DX and DR penalties. ==== Optional Rules for Armor ==== Here are many optional rules that allow a more realistic treatment of armor. === Armor Fatigue === Heavy body armor is cumbersome, but not as much as one would imagine. Unless it’s cheap (see Armor of Quality), it will be carefully tailored, with its weight evenly distributed over the whole body. A trained warrior can conduct most activities – running, jumping, mounting a horse, etc. – without undue strain or penalty. Body armor is hot and stuffy, however – especially if a helmet is worn. And leg armor is cumbersome, and can restrict movement. A full set of armor (helmet, chest, and legs) is heavy, and stifling even in temperate conditions. In hot weather, it increases FP costs (see Fighting a Battle, p. B426) and can contribute to heatstroke (see Heat, p. B434). Long battles, even with extended breaks between actual combat, can quickly fatigue a warrior. During the Battle of Towton in 1461, when knights fought each other on foot, the prolonged melee caused some to collapse from heat exhaustion despite the fact that heavy snow was falling! If using GURPS Mass Combat, the GM may wish to consider the length of the battle rounds when assessing FP loss. === Chinks in Armor === Even a full suit of armor has small gaps where the plates overlap. A precisely placed weapon point can exploit this; see Targeting Chinks in Armor (p. B400). The penalty to hit chinks in armor is -8 on the torso, -10 everywhere else. Remove -2 from the penalty for plate armor that doesn’t use sliding rivets (p. 109). Armor damage can further mitigate the penalty; see GURPS Low-Tech Companion 2. On a successful hit, halve armor DR. Only rigid armor has exploitable chinks. Flexible armor lacks chinks (but has other weaknesses). Flexible DR is marked with a “*” on the Armor Table (pp. 110-111). === Harsh Realism – Armor Gaps === In addition to chinks, there are places that rigid armor cannot cover at all – usually at the joints. For harsh realism, some of the more vulnerable locations are described below. These get no DR, not half DR, and may be easier to hit! Flexible armor was often worn underneath to help protect these vulnerabilities (see Arming Garments, below). Armpit: The armpit is vulnerable because it’s often exposed when the warrior lifts his arm to swing a weapon. An impaling wound there can sever the brachial or subclavian artery and the nerves controlling the arm before puncturing the lungs and heart. Treat an impaling attack to the armpit as an attack to the vitals at -8 to hit. On a critical hit, don’t roll on the Critical Hit Table; instead, the arm is automatically crippled (pp. B420-423). This is in addition to impaling damage to the vitals! Back of Knee: Rigid knee protection cannot wrap around to protect the back of the joint without preventing the leg from bending. The back of the knee may be targeted at -8. Treat a successful hit as if the joint itself was targeted (see GURPS Martial Arts, p. 137). Eyes: Any armor that fully covers the face also covers the eyes. Anyone wishing to target the eyes can do so through the eye-slits at -10. If successful, there’s no DR and the eyes suffer full damage! See Face Protection (p. 112) for more on armoring the face. Groin: The groin is especially difficult to armor and particularly vulnerable to attack. The rigid codpiece was an attempt to provide additional protection, but had to be removed before mounting a horse. The codpiece gives full DR to the groin but leaves gaps that can be targeted at -8. It also grants +2 to knockdown rolls for groin hits. Flexible armor, such as mail, gives more freedom of movement, but since the groin is susceptible to crushing damage (p. B399), it’s of only limited use. Inside Elbow: As with the knee, rigid armor can cover the elbow, but only on the outside. If it protected the entire joint, the warrior could not bend his arm. Because of this, the inside elbow is another gap that can be targeted at -8. Treat a successful hit as if the joint itself was targeted (see GURPS Martial Arts, p. 137). Neck: The neck is another location that’s tricky to armor. A rigid collar limits head movement, while a flexible one leaves the throat susceptible to crushing attacks. Neck armor gaps are at -8 to hit. For extra detail, see the Neck Wounds Table on p. 138 of GURPS Martial Arts. See Neck Protection (pp. 112-113) for more on armoring the neck. Open Palm: Most gauntlets have a soft leather (or completely open) palm to make it easier to grip a weapon. This may be targeted at -8 to hit – or just -6, if the wearer is unarmed. If successful, there’s no DR and the hand suffers full damage! Master Fiore taught a dagger parry that involved intercepting the opponent’s descending weapon hand with a dagger, and noted that it was especially effective against gauntlets. == Arming Garments == Historically, flexible armor was frequently worn under rigid armor to protect gaps. As well, padding was sometimes layered beneath mail to bolster it against crushing attacks. In Europe such garments were called pourpoints, haketons, or gambesons. Handle this using Layered Armor (p. 103). When chinks are targeted, though, the attacker need only overcome the flexible layer’s DR; e.g., if DR 1 padded cloth is worn beneath DR 6 plate, successfully targeting a gap in the plate means that the attacker must defeat only DR 1. At TL3, plate was strapped over a mail shirt called a haubergeon (“little hauberk”). This provided excellent protection but was very cumbersome. Any attack that struck the wearer had to contend with both layers (see Layered Armor, p. 103); gaps were protected only by the mail. At TL4, plate armor made use of a specialized garment called an arming doublet, which incorporated cords called arming points (twine or leather lacing) to attach small bits of plate and mail. This long-sleeved garment is very lightly padded and provides no additional DR. However, the patches of armor – called voiders or gussets – do give DR, and are specifically located at armor gaps; e.g., they’re sewn over the armpit and inside elbows. An arming doublet should be worn with any TL4 plate armor that includes arms and/or legs. It costs $160 and weighs 3 lbs. It’s possible to wear a suit of plate without an arming doublet, but this results in -1 to DX and DR, since it no longer fits correctly (see My Armor Doesn’t Fit, p. 103), and the gaps are now unprotected! == Concealing Armor == To conceal armor from somebody who’s looking for it, you must win a Quick Contest of Holdout (p. B200) vs. his Search skill (p. B219). Holdout suffers a penalty equal to DR for rigid armor, DR/3 (round up) for flexible armor. Also add any bonus for clothes worn over the armor; e.g., Long Coat (p. 99) and Undercover Clothing (p. 100). Range penalties apply to Search. Armor can be made more concealable to mitigate the Holdout penalty; flexible armor is most suitable, but rigid panels can also be concealed. The craftsman needs Armoury (Body Armor) and Sewing at skill 12+. He chooses a type of clothing and the armor he wishes to conceal within it, and then rolls against the lower of the two skills. Remove -1 from the Holdout penalty per two full points of success; e.g., success by 5 erases -2 in Holdout penalties. Critical success means the armor can only be detected with a tactile search. Critical failure indicates that the armor will fail completely at some dramatically appropriate time during combat (GM’s decision). Total weight and base cost follow the rules for combination devices that can be used simultaneously; see Combination Gadgets (p. 14). Multiply this base cost by the amount of Holdout penalty removed, +1. Example: Ordinary clothing for Status 2 costs $600 (20% of $3,000 cost of living). Fine mail armor is $900. A combination gadget has base cost $900 + (0.8 x $600) = $1,380. If it removes -3 in Holdout penalties, final cost is (3 + 1) x $1,380 = $5,520. == Donning Armor == Historically, most warriors who could afford a suit of armor also had at least one servant to carry it when it wasn’t needed, and to help put it on when it was. Many pieces of armor have laces and straps that are difficult for the wearer to fasten. Each piece (cuirass, helmet, gauntlet, greave, etc.) requires a certain amount of time to don. Some items, such as a mail shirt, can simply be slipped over the head in a few seconds; others, such as a scale corselet, are fastened with buckles or lacing, requiring much more time. The time to don each type of armor appears in the Armor Table (pp. 110-111), which covers only torso armor. Calculate times to armor other body parts using the percentages on the Armor Locations Table (p. 100). If the wearer has assistance putting on his armor, divide donning time by 4 (minimum 3 seconds). Time to remove the armor is halved. === Hit Locations === Obviously, different body parts require different pieces of armor! It’s rare for armor to provide the same protection over the entire body. A suit of plate, for example, uses heavier plates for the head and chest; much lighter plates protect the arms and legs. Most hit locations are described on pp. B398-399, but some others are outlined below. See the Armor Locations Table (p. 100) for weight and cost. ==Chest== The Armor Table (pp. 110-111) lists armor that covers the entire torso. In reality, many types of armor are too rigid for this. They would prevent the warrior from bending at the waist, making many maneuvers impossible – sitting down, mounting a horse, and even running. Most armor stops at the midriff, leaving stomach and groin exposed. Gamers who wish to simulate this can separate the torso location into two sections: the chest, which includes breast and upper back (areas 9-10), and the abdomen (below). The chest is targeted at no special penalty. If a crushing, piercing, or impaling attack strikes the chest, roll 1d; on a 1, the vitals are hit. ==Abdomen== As noted above, many types of armor can cover the upper torso but aren’t flexible enough to cover the lower torso. === Improvised Armor === An adventurer might wish protection in battle but lack access to professionally made armor. Many types of armor can be improvised. It doesn’t take a professional to make a straw-mat breastplate (see Straw, p. 106); a leather jacket or a craftsman’s apron requires no modification at all to act as armor; and a large animal skull can be stuck on the head as an improvised pot helm (see Bone, p. 106). Other types of improvised armor require basic knowledge of Armoury (Body Armor), so a skill roll is required – but at +4. Basic smithing tools can work a suitable metal pot into a helmet. With wire and simple tools, you can make unriveted mail armor (see Butted Mail, p. 107). Cheap-quality (-1 DR) splint bracers and greaves (see Splinted Armor, p. 105) can be made with a length of cord and some metal or wooden strips. A tailor’s kit (p. 30) and a Sewing skill roll, still at +4, can quilt a pile of tunics into cheap-quality (-1 DR) layered cloth armor (below). === Layered Armor === The rules in Combining and Layering Armor (p. B286) require armor to be flexible and concealable if it’s to be worn as an underlayer. Low-Tech offers advanced rules for concealing armor; see Concealing Armor (p. 102). When using these, warriors wishing to combine layers and their respective DRs may simply omit the need for inner layers to be concealable. Such armor must still be flexible, though. Apply -1 to DX for one additional layer, or -2 to DX for two. More than three layers total is rare. This penalty only affects deeds performed with the affected hit location. For example, if only the legs have layered armor, the penalty only affects actions involving the legs – including combat (but not mounted combat), running, and climbing. If armor is layered on the torso, the penalty applies to all actions. However, DX penalties don’t apply if the total odds of partial armor protecting a hit location are 3 in 6 or less (see the Armor Locations Table, p. 100), or for armor that covers only the head. Items that don’t provide DR don’t cause DX penalties. Notably, many types of armor are worn with padding to improve fit and comfort, but that isn’t thick enough to provide DR. There’s no DX penalty for this. Armor in the Armor Table (pp. 110-111) includes suitable padding, which neither provides additional DR nor affects DX. If a warrior wore armor over thick padded cloth (DR 1), though, DX penalties would apply. ===Sneaking in Armor=== Armor is noisy and easily noticed: halve DR, round up, and assess a Stealth penalty of that size. If armor DR varies by hit location, use the piece with the highest penalty. If the overall encumbrance penalty (p. B17) would be worse, use that instead of the DR-based one. Special preparation can reduce the chances of being detected. Spending 10 minutes to pad or tie down rattling buckles and rubbing segments decreases noise. Another method is to wrap each individual segment in soft cloth or fine leather. Lacquering also reduces the amount of noise armor makes; handle this using Styling (p. 14), treating it as +4 CF. Each of these methods removes -1 from the Stealth penalty. If appropriate camouflage colors are used (see Camouflage, p. 126), then a bonus to Camouflage also applies. ==== Textiles ==== If clothing can be made from fabric, then so can armor. To provide protection, it must be much thicker than regular clothing. This is accomplished either by stuffing two textile layers with padding or by quilting together multiple layers. === Layered Cloth (TL0) === Multiple layers of quilted cloth can form a semi-rigid defense. Examples include the Greek linothorax, European padded jack, Indian peti, and hair and fiber armor of South America and the Pacific Islands. Layered cloth armor provides better protection than a similar weight of leather armor. The degree of protection is a function of the number of layers and the weight of the fabric: light, medium, or heavy (see the Armor Table, pp. 110-111). Armor quality depends on the grade of fabric and the spacing between rows of quilting. === Padded Cloth (TL0) === Usually either a heavy layer of felt (about 1/4” thick) or a stuffed quilt (two layers of cloth between which rags, tow, horsehair, rock salt, dried grass, or straw is sandwiched). Other materials can be substituted for similar protection; e.g., sheepskin with the wool on the inside. This is the standard cloth armor on p. B283. === Silk (TL2) === Byzantine medical manuals – and monks such as Carpini, who traveled far into the East – mention the usefulness of silk undershirts. Most suitable is raw silk, which is tougher than refined threads. Mongolian silk dels consisted of several layers of tightly woven raw silk, worn under armor to help resist arrows. Such a garment doesn’t prevent a weapon from penetrating the body, but engulfs the tip and is pulled into the wound. This reduces the depth of penetration and makes the weapon easier to extract. It also decreases the likelihood of dirt and fragments of fabric entering the wound. Silk gives an extra +1 DR vs. cutting and impaling attacks, and negates the effects of barbed weapons. Against such attacks, it grants +1 to First Aid rolls to treat injuries and eliminates -2 in penalties to HT rolls for infection due to dirt in the wound (p. B444). Finally, silk prevents skin contact, negating any blood agent or contact poison. Any cloth armor can be made of silk instead of more common textiles. +19 CF; weight is unchanged. Some campaigns may allow more exotic threads, such as spider silk. This produces a superior fabric when woven into cloth. Treat as regular silk, but with +2 DR vs. cutting and impaling. +99 CF; weight is unchanged. === Feathers (TL1) === Aztec nobles wore feathered armor. For this to work, the feathers’ quills must be incorporated into the initial weaving process. Overlapping rows of feathers are assembled in a manner similar to the plates in scale armor (pp. 106-107). A feathered surcoat is both water-resistant and effective at deflecting arrows and darts. Adding feathers to any cloth garment adds +1 DR vs. light missiles (see Arrow Curtains, above). Melee attacks aren’t affected. Firearms are also unaffected, due to the higher velocities. Adds $2,000 to the base price of cloth armor; weight is unchanged. === Arrow Curtains === A loosely hung cloth or light leather curtain is useful against ranged attacks, as light projectiles that encounter such a barrier are less likely to pass through. Some Greek hoplite shields employed a curtain hung from the bottom of the rim to stop arrows and sling shot (protects the legs). Aztec shields sometimes used a curtain made of feathers. The Japanese horo worked on a similar principle – attached to the wearer’s neck and waist, it billowed out behind like a sail when he rode his horse (protects the back, but only when moving faster than Move 2). An arrow curtain gives +1 DR vs. any light ranged weapon (arrows, sling shot, thrown knives, etc.). Firearms are exempt because bullets’ higher velocity lets them pass through with minimal interference. A curtain attached to the bottom of a shield makes the shield less maneuverable: -1 to Shield skill. $80, 2 lbs. ==== HIDE ==== “Hide” refers to any kind of animal skin – processed or not. Some hides are more suitable than others for making armor. === Furs (TL0) === There’s no evidence that Stone Age warriors wore garments specifically designed to resist weapons, but a few layers of animal skins are heavy enough to provide DR 1 vs. cutting (only). For stats, see Winter Clothing (p. 98). === Leather (TL0) === Leather has been used extensively to make armor. The size of the animal generally determines its thickness and hence its DR. //Light Leather//: Soft, flexible leather, from animals such as cattle, sheep, pigs, deer, reptiles, and even fish. Not often worn as standalone armor; it’s usually the backing for something more substantial, such as scale armor (pp. 106-107). Worn on its own, it works like furs (above), providing DR 1 vs. cutting attacks. //Medium Leather//: From animals such as bear, aurochs, buffalo, and large crocodiles. Medium leather armor was used from Europe to Indonesia. It’s still flexible, but offers reasonable protection. Medium leather gives DR 2 vs. all attacks except impaling, against which it has DR 1. //Heavy Leather//: From large animals, such as elephant, hippopotamus, and rhinoceros. Heavy leather was once widely used throughout Asia; the Asian rhinoceros was hunted to extinction during the Bronze Age as a result. Coastal Chinese clans sometimes used whaleskin once the rhinoceros became scarce. Heavy leather affords DR 3 vs. all attacks except impaling, against which it has DR 2. === Rawhide (TL0) === Rawhide is basically untanned leather. It’s vulnerable to moisture, and deteriorates quickly. Treat it as hardened leather armor (p. 105), with two exceptions. First, it gives the DR of hardened leather only while dry; if it gets wet, it loses all protective capability until thoroughly dried and reshaped. Second, it has half the HP of hardened leather (see Armor Damage in GURPS Low-Tech Companion 2). Coating it with oil, wax, lacquer, or resin can avoid the first problem (see Wet-Weather Gear, p. 99), but only tanning (see Leathers, p. 22) or a very dry environment can mitigate the second. === Leather of Quality === Kangaroo leather has a very high tensile strength, three times that of cowhide. Sharkskin is extremely tough, and more resistant to abrasion than any other leather. Giraffe hide is sought after in Africa because it’s both lightweight and extremely tough. Certain sections of horse hide also provide excellent leather. In addition, some advanced tanning methods may improve leather’s quality. Treat superior hides as fine leather armor with +1 DR. +4 CF; weight is unchanged. === Layered Leather (TL1) === In Bronze Age China, warriors wore armor made of several layers of leather. Asian nomads and Eastern Europeans adopted similar armor during the Middle Ages. South American examples have also been recovered. The multiple layers enable it to absorb impact and resist impaling attacks more effectively than a single thick layer. All but the lightest of layered leather cuirasses are rigid. The number of layers and the thickness of each layer determine the degree of protection: light, medium, or heavy (see the Armor Table, pp. 110- 111). Leather scale armor may also be treated as layered leather (for metal scale armor, see pp. 106-107). === Hardened Leather (TL2) === Known as cuir-bouilli, hardened leather was first documented in Western Europe near the end of the 12th century. It was used centuries earlier in Asia. Soaking leather in hot water softens it, enabling it to be molded into a desired shape. Then it’s either left to dry naturally or slowly baked in an oven at medium temperatures. Finally, it’s waterproofed with a wax, resin, or lacquer coating. The end product is a very hard, water- and shatter-resistant material, perfect for resisting weapons. Hardening adds +1 to leather’s DR against impaling damage. It also causes the leather to shrink; more material is required to cover the same area (+25% weight). Light leather cannot be strengthened this way; it would warp and crack. Hardened medium leather is the leather armor on p. B283, with DR 2 vs. all attacks. Hardened heavy leather provides DR 3. Use these stats for both a solid leather cuirass and one assembled from narrower segmented panels. ====REINFORCED==== Textile or leather armor may be reinforced with metal, horn, wood, or shell pieces for additional protection. This option isn’t available for metallic armor. Reinforcing grants +1 DR vs. cutting (only), but adds +0.25 CF and 25% to weight. Recalculate armor HP based on the new weight. Below are some common types of reinforcing. ===Bezainting (TL0)=== Bezainted garments have small pieces of horn or bark – or fish scales, coins, or metal discs – attached with rivets or lacing. A surviving Alaskan example consists of a hardened leather cuirass covered with Japanese and Chinese coins. In medieval Europe, this was sometimes called a “pennyplate coat.” If the discs overlap, treat this defense as scale armor (pp. 106-107) instead. Metallic bezainting is TL1. ===Armored Surcoat (TL2)=== A sturdy surcoat reinforced with rows of fairly long, rectangular, overlapping plates, set vertically and riveted to the inside of the fabric. It first appeared in Europe in the second half of the 12th century, and was layered over mail (p. 107) for extra protection. By the 13th century, it had evolved into the coat of plates (see Segmented Plate, pp. 107-108). Example: Treat an armored surcoat as reinforced textile armor. Light layered cloth has DR 2*, and is $150, 12 lbs. Reinforcing increases DR vs. cutting to 3, but adds 25% to both cost and weight. Final cost is $187.50; final weight is 15 lbs. ===Ring Armor (TL2)=== Often incorrectly called “ring mail,” this armor was used on rare occasions in Asia, and consisted of a cloth or leather garment upon which metal rings were sewn. There’s little proof that ring armor ever existed in medieval Europe. During the Renaissance, a type of ring armor called an “eyelet doublet” was developed; this consisted of a quilted garment onto which hundreds of small rings or eyelets were sewn. ===Splinted Armor (TL2)=== Splinted arm and leg guards were common in many cultures. Construction consists of a cloth or leather item with vertical strips of metal, horn, or wood riveted to either the inside or outside (sometimes alternating). Metallic splints may be concealed by riveting them underneath the foundation and then covering the rivet heads with another layer of cloth (see Concealing Armor, p. 102). Example: We want splint reinforcing on hardened leather shin greaves. Hard medium leather torso armor has DR 2, and is $125, 15 lbs. Greaves cover only the shins; from the Armor Locations Table (p. 100), we find that shins have 50% the cost and weight of torso armor, so they’re $62.50, 7.5 lbs. Reinforcing raises DR vs. cutting to 3, but adds 25% to both cost and weight. Final cost is $78.13; final weight is 9.38 lbs. ===Jack Chains (TL3)=== Narrow metal bars or splints are aligned along a limb (arm or leg) to offer additional protection. A small length of chain – maybe three or four links – joins the bars together while allowing the limb to articulate. Sometimes a small metal cup covers the knee or elbow. ==== OTHER NONMETALLIC ARMOR ==== Nonmetallic armor can be made from materials other than cloth and hide. A region’s raw materials determine what kinds of armor are prevalent among the locals. === Bone (TL0) === Dead bone is too brittle to make decent armor, but it was used on occasion. Examples include the bone-splint breastplates of the American Plains Indians, and the animal-skull helmets of some South American and African tribes. Treat as horn armor (p. 110), but semi-ablative (see p. B47). === Cane (TL0) === Common among the Inca of Peru and on many Pacific Islands, cane was sometimes used in Europe. One method of construction is to lace rattan to a tree-bark lining. Another is to weave flexible cane rods into the desired shape, such as a helmet, breastplate, or greave. Cane is combustible – it can catch fire if burning damage penetrates DR! See Making Things Burn (p. B433); treat the armor material as resistant. === Horn (TL0) === This includes antler, ivory, hoof, turtle shell, and baleen. Such materials are light and tough, and can be molded when heated in water, making them good for fashioning armor – most commonly a kind of scale armor (below). Horn armor was popular in regions with few resources, such as the Asian steppes and the Arctic Circle. An early example is the boar’s tusk helms worn in Greece by the ancient Mycenaeans. Another is the scale armor worn by the Neolithic Sarmatians, made by slicing horses’ hooves into scales and sewing them onto a garment with sinew. === Straw (TL0) === Although heavy and uncomfortable, straw-mat armor offers decent protection at a bargain price. During his final expedition, the English explorer Captain James Cook tried to subdue a Hawaiian native with musket small shot. His opponent fell to the ground, but the man’s straw-mat breastplate prevented serious injury. Straw is as combustible as cane (above). === Wood (TL0) === Solid chunks of wood can be carved into shapes that are fitted to the body. Armor may also be assembled from wooden slats or rods tied together with cord or rawhide and suspended from the shoulders, hanging loosely against the body. Wooden armor is semi-ablative (see p. B47). === Stone (TL1) === In 1999, archaeologists in China discovered a huge tomb southeast of the Qingshihuang Mausoleum containing several types of stone armor. Every piece was chipped and polished from stone into different shapes, which were then connected with wire to create a type of lamellar armor. It is unlikely that this armor was ever meant for fighting, however; it was probably created purely for funerary purposes. Treat as heavy scale armor (p. 110), but semi-ablative (see p. B47), and with -0.5 CF and double weight. === Jade === The Chinese believed that jade could preserve the physical body after death. Ceremonial suits of jade armor were crafted as funerary goods for powerful individuals. Jade is extremely tough, however, and could be used for actual combat! Treat as stone armor (above), but it gives +2 to reaction rolls and has +4 CF. Gem-quality jade armor would give +3 to reaction rolls and have +9 CF. ===Paper (TL2)=== In Japan, the peasant hat called a jingasa was sometimes made of several layers of rice paper (p. 24), coated with lacquer. This keeps the rain off, and offers a little head protection (DR 1). In most cases, however, what’s really meant by “paper armor” is barkcloth (see Paper and Its Cousins, p. 24). Laminated barkcloth was issued to common soldiers as cheap, disposable armor. In Korea, it was called jigap. This material is remarkably efficient at distributing impact, and its multiple layers can trap weapon points. Treat as layered cloth (p. 110), except that it can catch fire if burning damage penetrates DR. See Making Things Burn (p. B433); the armor material counts as resistant. -0.25 CF; weight is unchanged. Barkcloth can be proofed against light firearms by combining it with a few layers of silk. This version is TL4. Like other paper armor, it’s combustible. ====METALLIC ARMOR==== Metal has been preferred for armor since the dawn of the Bronze Age. The earliest examples were Sumerian copper helmets – but soon, elite troops were wearing bronze scale armor. Pound for pound, work-hardened metals such as bronze and iron afford better protection than any other material available to a low-tech society. === Scale and Lamellar (TL1) === These are the oldest known types of metallic body armor. Both consist of small plates laced to each other in overlapping rows. If the plates are fastened to a cloth or leather backing, then the armor is scale. If they’re assembled so that no backing is required, then the armor is lamellar – an example of which is the o-yoroi worn by Japan’s samurai. The plates’ thickness and degree of overlap determine the level of protection. Three grades of scale armor approximate this on the Armor Table (p. 110): light, medium (most common), and heavy. Heavy scale is usually only worn on the chest, although panels can be made into guards for shoulders, abdomen, and thighs. === Chinese Mountain Scale === Armor made from scales shaped like the Chinese character for “mountain.” When assembled, the surface of each scale resembles a star; thus, this armor is also known as “star scale.” This construction is flexible like scale armor, but the scales lock together on impact, creating a rigid surface that’s less susceptible to blunt trauma – a behavior called “shock hardening.” Treat this as light or medium scale without the -1 DR vs. crushing. +1 CF; weight is unchanged. === Mail (TL2) === Probably the most successful type of body armor ever devised, mail seems to have been invented in Central Europe in the fourth century B.C., and was soon adopted by the Celts and then the Romans (who called it lorica hamata). It saw continuous use for the better part of 2,000 years in most metal-using cultures, with the exception of China. In essence, it’s a fabric of interlocking metal rings, each linked through four others – two in the row above it and two below – and riveted closed. There are variations, but this “four-in-one” pattern is by far the most prevalent. The diameter of each link and the thickness of the wire determine mail’s effectiveness. Fine Mail (TL2). Made from small links of light wire, this material flows through the fingers like metallic cloth, yet can resist all but the heaviest sword cuts and spear thrusts. The earliest finds date to the Roman period. Light Mail (TL2). Consisting of fairly large links of light wire, this mail was more often layered with other armor than worn by itself. Heavy Mail (TL2). Has large links of heavy wire. Historically, mail worn as primary armor (Roman, Viking, Norman, etc.) tended to be heavier than that meant to be layered under other armor. Jousting Mail (TL3). Mentioned in some medieval accounts, this seems to have been specifically designed for tournaments at a time when jousts involved fully sharpened war lances! It isn’t entirely clear how it differed from field mail, but it was likely more rigid and heavier. As with jousting plate (p. 109), the armor’s construction hampers movement: -1 to all DX-based skills except Lance. Mail and Plates (TL3). Sometimes called combined mail, this consists of mail armor with vertical rows of overlapping plates incorporated into it. It appeared in India, Russia, and the Middle East around the 14th century. It has better resistance to crushing damage than heavy mail. ====Mail and Padding==== Mail – like many types of armor – is usually worn over light padding. This might be a separate layer (an aketon or pourpoint; see Arming Garments, p. 101) or sewn to the back of the mail. Such padding is rarely thick enough to add DR. Mail’s main disadvantage, however, is that it’s flexible, and susceptible to blunt trauma (p. B379). To mitigate this, it’s sometimes layered with padded cloth (DR 1) or more-rigid armor. This gives a DX penalty; see Layered Armor (p. 103). ===Butted Mail (TL2)=== Heavy wire links bent into rings that aren’t riveted closed. While cheaper, it provides less protection against impaling attacks – weapon points can easily open the rings! Historically, butted mail is rare except as ceremonial armor, but modern recreationists prize its ease of manufacture. Treat butted mail as heavy mail, but with only DR 2 vs. impaling and 40% manufacture time. -0.6 CF; weight is unchanged. ===Banded Mail (TL3)=== Light mail with horizontal strips of leather woven through every other row to stiffen the weave and increase resistance to blunt trauma. This rare construction is unsuitable for hit locations that require flexibility – arms, legs, abdomen, etc. – and is normally only used on collars to protect the neck (see Mail Collar, p. 113). Negates the -2 DR vs. crushing. +0.5 CF; +50% weight. === Jazerant (TL3) === A mail shirt sandwiched between two layers of light padding and/or fine leather. The word is derived from the Arabic kazaghand; its earliest recorded use is in the 12th century, in the Middle East. With this construction, the mail is sewn inside the padding rather than worn over it. The most common form of concealed armor, jazerant can be based on any regular mail, typically fine mail. It has the underlying armor’s weight and DR; modify cost to reflect the Holdout modifier, as explained in Concealing Armor (p. 102). === Jack of Plates (TL2) === European jacks usually consist of overlapping plates – similar to scale armor – sandwiched between two layers of lightly padded fabric and held in place with cord. Oriental jacks have individual pockets into which the plates are sewn. Either type of armor resembles quilted cloth, making it fairly easy to conceal (+1 to Holdout). === Segmented Plate (TL2) === Segmented plate is made from large horizontal bands, curved around the body and overlapped to allow some articulation. The best-known variety is the lorica segmentata of the Roman legions, but such armor also saw use in the Middle East and Asia. The earliest known example is the bronze Dendra panoply (Greece, dating to around 1400 B.C.), which consists of a solid cuirass protecting the chest, with hide-laced segmented plates hanging below to protect the abdomen and thighs. A more advanced version is the coat of plates (TL3), which probably evolved from the armored surcoat (p. 105). This segmented variant differs in that the horizontal plates are riveted to the inside of a foundation garment so that only the rivet heads are visible on the surface. It’s often layered over a light mail shirt for additional protection. Most of the evidence for this armor was excavated from Scandinavian graves at the site of the Battle of Wisby (1361), although it was also worn in Russia and Asia. Segmented armor is much easier to fashion than solid plate because the metal sections required are smaller, and the armor requires less tailoring to a given wearer. Once the segments have been forged, assembly is quick and simple. Lace, wire, or rivets connect adjacent bands, or the plates can be riveted to canvas or leather. The rules for increasing DR under Heavy Plate (p. 109) are applicable to segmented plate. ===Brigandine (TL4)=== Well-tailored, close-fitting armor consisting of small, overlapping metal plates riveted to the inside of a cloth or leather garment. The name has nothing to do with thieves or bandits! The term “brigand” originally denoted a foot soldier; thus, “brigandine” simply describes a type of armor for infantry. Brigandine first appeared in Europe in the middle of the 14th century, evolving from the coat of plates (see Segmented Plate, above). Similar armor was developed in Asia, and became fashionable as courtly wear. Within a generation, brigandines grew very popular, remaining in fashion until the end of the 16th century. Many commentators regard it as a civilian armor worn by Renaissance gentlemen, but it made frequent appearances on the battlefield, where it provided excellent protection; some examples were proofed against firearms (see Heavy Plate, p. 109), and had lancerests (see Jousting Plate, p. 109). Brigandine can be concealed by hiding the rivets under a textile or fine leather cover (see Concealing Armor, p. 102); however, while it might seem ideal for this treatment, it was rarely concealed historically. Brigandines were the height of fashion – flamboyantly displayed, with expensive textiles and gilded rivets arrayed in attractive patterns. They were even emulated in civilian dress both in Europe and in Asian courts. Cloth garments known as faux brigandine were cut and tailored like brigandines, with rivets attached in similar patterns, but without metal plates behind them. Such clothing is sometimes erroneously called “studded armor,” but provides no DR. ===Plate (TL4)=== The Basic Set lists plate armor as TL3 (see p. B283). Historically, solid plate torso protection made from iron was exceedingly rare before TL4. Earlier attempts (e.g., Japanese tanko) relied on smaller plates that were riveted or welded together, and made of poorer-quality iron. These were heavy and required an exceptional craftsman to fashion. Solid plate armor began to advance only after the development of blast furnaces (see Iron and Steel, p. 20) that could smelt iron blooms large enough to create a single- piece breastplate, and of water-powered trip-hammer mills that reduced the labor and manufacturing costs. Treat the TL3 plate in the Basic Set as an early attempt to create such armor – or to fit anachronistic armor into TL3 fantasy. Its weight is higher than many real TL4 examples. This applies only to torso armor and complete suits, though. Smaller pieces of iron plate, such as helmets and greaves, are available starting at TL2. Full suits of bronze plate are available from TL1, with the usual +3 CF. ==== Copper and Bronze ==== The stats for metallic armor assume worked iron. However, metal armor can be and often was made from bronze – and sometimes copper. ===Copper Armor (TL1)=== Very early TL1 societies sometimes used unalloyed copper for armor; e.g., in helmets. Copper’s metallurgical qualities make it poorly suited to this application. Copper armor is of cheap quality, yet has full cost; see Armor of Quality (p. 109). ===Bronze Armor (TL1)=== Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin (see Copper, Bronze, and Brass, p. 20); the higher the tin content, the harder the metal. Approximately 10-12% tin was common for weapons, while 8-10% was usual for armor. Properly cast and work-hardened, bronze is as effective as iron for armor. Even during the Iron Age (TL2), bronze was the most common metal for plate armor. This was because iron had to be forged from relatively small billets, which made it extremely difficult to fashion larger plates, and the laborious hand-forging and careful tempering required relied on techniques not widely known before late TL2. The Roman desire for massproduced armor led to solid bronze plate armor being abandoned in favor of segmented iron protection (see Segmented Plate, pp. 107-108). Iron’s key advantage was availability – it enabled a far higher proportion of an army to be equipped with metal arms and armor, while bronze was reserved for the elite. Not until quench-hardened steel was fully understood at TL4 (see Hardened Steel, p. 110) did iron articles begin to surpass bronze ones in actual effectiveness. All types of iron armor can be made of bronze. Bronze armor is as good as iron armor, but adds +3 CF. Weight is unchanged. Full suits of iron plate first appeared in Western Europe in the late 1300s. Over the next century, they evolved into fully articulated protection far surpassing anything previously developed. Plate armor could be surprisingly light and, if custom fitted to an individual and articulated properly, quite comfortable. It allowed a full range of movement, and weighed less than any other low-tech armor offering similar protection. A plate suit (called a “harness”) used pieces of varying thickness, with the lightest on the least-susceptible areas (ribs, forearms, shins) and the heaviest on the most-vulnerable ones (head and chest). See Heavy Plate (above) for additional details. ===Jousting Plate=== By the 15th century, jousting plate was well-developed. This cumbersome and highly specialized form of protection is the source of many misconceptions about plate armor. Its awkwardness gives -1 to all DX-based skills except Lance. A knight who’s knocked over or unseated needs two Change Posture maneuvers for each posture change (treat him as being in the original posture until the end of the second maneuver). Additionally, Move is reduced due to encumbrance – jousting plate isn’t light. Such armor’s specialized protection is concentrated at the front torso, left arm, neck, and head. Other locations are more lightly protected, as they’re less likely to be hit while jousting. The cuirass is fitted with a lance-rest: +1 to Lance skill, $50, 0.5 lb. There are three ways to arrive at this kind of armor: * Use purpose-built jousting plate. That is, a heavy harness designed exclusively for jousting, unsuitable for the battlefield or adventuring. Build such armor by using Heavy Plate (above) to add extra DR in strategic locations. A knight who owns a suit like this will also want a separate harness (called “field armor”) for fighting in battle. * Add a grand-guard. A grand-guard is a piece of armor specially designed to bolt on top of another plate harness. Purchase it as a separate suit of armor, with an extra $100 to cover the connectors. This arrangement allows two layers of rigid armor that otherwise follow the rules under Layered Armor (p. 103). * Buy a garniture. A garniture consists of modular heavy pieces – built using Heavy Plate (above) – that can replace individual articles of field armor, converting it into jousting armor. One piece is worn on any given location at a time, but only the heaviest arrangement of the garniture suffers the problems of jousting plate listed above. Because the heavy pieces are made to match another harness, they cost extra; each piece that can be swapped out has +0.2 CF. Still, money is saved by not having to purchase separate harnesses for jousting and battle! ===Heavy Plate=== Plate can be very thick, but high DR is costly and massive. For every +1 DR, add 50% to base cost and weight. All armor made with large plates – including segmented plate (p. 107) and brigandine (p. 108) – can use these rules. Example: A DR 3 iron cuirass is $1000, 8 lbs. For every +1 DR, add $500, 4 lbs. Thus, a DR 6 cuirass is $2,500, 20 lbs. See the Armor Table (pp. 110-111) for other examples. The thickest plate that can be manufactured before TL5 has DR 14. This is at the upper range of historical examples – specialized jousting plate (above) or the heaviest proofed armor (p. 110). Anything above DR 10 is usually only worn on the head or chest; a complete suit would be too cumbersome and difficult to articulate. ===Sliding Rivets (TL4)=== Developed in the 15th century and perfected during the 16th, the sliding rivet is integral to the production of well-articulated plate armor. The rivet’s head is burred over and fixed in the upper plate, while the lower plate is slotted for about 3/4”, so that it can slide up and down on the rivet’s shank, allowing more mobility than the previously used “arming nail” (fixed rivet). This helps to produce an evenly distributed system of interlocking plates, permitting excellent freedom of movement. Primitive TL3 plate doesn’t use sliding rivets; this weakness reduces the penalty for targeting chinks in armor (pp. 101-102) by -2, to -6 or -8. ====ARMOR OF QUALITY==== Skillfully crafted armor that’s custom-fitted to a particular wearer affords improved protection. Metal armor made from better grades of steel – or with added ribs and fluting – is likewise superior. Conversely, poorly made armor has reduced effectiveness. Thus, armor has quality grades besides the good quality assumed by the Armor Table (pp. 110-111). ===Cheap Quality=== This might be mass-produced munitions armor, issued to an army’s rank and file; an early example is the lorica segmentata (Segmented Plate, pp. 107-108) of the Roman legions. Alternatively, the armor could be the work of an inexperienced armorer, or incorporate low-grade materials. Cheap armor has -1 DR. -0.6 CF; weight is unchanged. ===Fine Quality=== Fine-quality armor has increased DR and/or reduced weight. Such weight reductions don’t lower HP. Calculate HP from weight before quality adjustments. Below are some common examples. These can be combined unless noted otherwise; DR modifiers, CF, and weight reductions are additive. For instance, masterfully tailored, fluted armor has +33 CF, -40% weight. Many other types of fine-quality armor are possible. Two examples are Silk (p. 104) and Leather of Quality (p. 105). Exotic materials – dragon hide, spider silk (p. 104), and so on – may provide additional benefits, increasing DR or reducing weight even further. ===Expert Tailoring (TL1)=== Low-Tech assumes that all but cheap-quality armor is custom-fitted to the owner. An experienced armorer can improve the fit even further. This adds -1 to penalties to target chinks in armor (pp. 101-102). +5 CF; reduce weight by 15%. ===Masterful Tailoring (TL1)=== This is very fine armor, made by one of the world’s best armorers. As above, but +29 CF and reduce weight by 30%. ===Fluting (TL1)=== All plate armor (pp. 108-109) is specifically shaped to cause blows to glance off harmlessly, but adding flutes, ribs, and bosses in key areas allows a weight reduction with no loss of strength. Scale and lamellar armor (pp. 106-107) can likewise be strengthened with a boss or vertical medial rib raised on each scale. Not available for other armor. +4 CF; reduce weight by 10%. ===Hardened Steel (TL4)=== Typical metal armor is made from good-quality bloomery iron, which is reasonably tough and ductile – but heavy weapons can cause dents and tears in light plate. Armorers worked out fairly early how to add carbon and heat-treat the result to get hardened steel, but this isn’t a mature technology until the late Middle Ages. All metal armor, including mail and scale, may be made from hardened steel. It provides +1 DR. +4 CF; weight is unchanged. Duplex Plate (TL4). This is an advanced form of hardened steel; see Armor of Proof (below). It’s only an option for plate armor. As above, but +8 CF and reduce weight by 10%. === Armor of Proof (TL4) === There are several ways to improve armor’s resistance to powerful bows and firearms. One is to bolt an additional plate called a plastron over the breastplate; handle this with Layered Armor (p. 103), as explained in Jousting Plate (p. 109). Another is use thicker plate; see Heavy Plate (p. 109). However, these methods proved impractical as firearms improved – they made armor unbearably heavy. A more advanced technique involved trying to determine the ideal heat treatment for shot-proof plate, but the process was too complex to yield reliable results with medieval technology. The most elegant solution was to rivet or weld together two plates of different hardness; this duplex plate provided both the hardness and toughness to resist firearms without complicated heat treatments; see Hardened Steel (p. 110). ==== ARMOR TABLE ==== See Armor Tables (p. B282) for an explanation of the notation and abbreviations used here. In brief: TL: The tech level at which this armor is available. Torso Armor: The armor’s name. All armor here protects the torso (areas 9-11, plus vitals). Use the Armor Locations Table (p. 100) to determine the weight and cost of armor covering other hit locations. DR: The amount of Damage Resistance the item gives. The DR of some armor, such as mail, varies depending on damage type (see the notes after the table). “*” means that the armor is flexible and susceptible to blunt trauma (p. B379). Cost: The item’s price, in $. Weight: The item’s weight, in pounds. Don: The time required, in seconds, to put on this armor; see Donning Armor (p. 102). Notes: Many items have special features or restrictions; see the notes after the table. ^ TL ^ Torso Armor ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ Don ^ Notes ^ | 0 | Cane | 1 | $35 | 12 | 28 | [1] | | 0 | Cloth, Padded | 1* | $50 | 6 | 15 | | 0 | Horn | 3 | $250 | 25 | 30 | | 0 | Layered Cloth, Light | 2* | $150 | 12 | 20 | | 0 | Layered Cloth, Medium | 3 | $350 | 20 | 30 | | 0 | Layered Cloth, Heavy | 4 | $600 | 28 | 30 | | 0 | Leather, Medium | 2* | $100 | 12 | 30 | [2] | | 0 | Leather, Heavy | 3 | $200 | 20 | 30 | [2] | | 0 | Straw | 2 | $50 | 20 | 30 | [1] | | 0 | Wood | 3 | $100 | 30 | 30 | [3] | | 1 | Layered Leather, Light | 2* | $120 | 15 | 20 | | 1 | Layered Leather, Medium | 3 | $220 | 26 | 30 | | 1 | Layered Leather, Heavy | 4 | $525 | 35 | 30 | | 1 | Scale, Light | 3 | $320 | 16 | 30 | [4] | | 1 | Scale, Medium | 4 | $550 | 28 | 30 | [4] | | 1 | Scale, Heavy | 5 | $1,100 | 40 | 30 | | 2 | Hardened Leather, Medium | 2 | $125 | 15 | 30 | | 2 | Hardened Leather, Heavy | 3 | $250 | 25 | 30 | | 2 | Jack of Plates | 3 | $300 | 18 | 30 | [4] | | 2 | Mail, Light | 3* | $500 | 12 | 15 | [5] | | 2 | Mail, Fine | 4* | $900 | 15 | 15 | [5] | | 2 | Mail, Heavy | 5* | $1,200 | 18 | 15 | [5] | | 2 | Segmented Plate, Light | 3 | $600 | 16 | 45 | | 2 | Segmented Plate, Medium | 4 | $900 | 24 | 45 | | 2 | Segmented Plate, Heavy | 5 | $1,200 | 32 | 45 | | 3 | Mail and Plates | 5 | $1,000 | 20 | 20 | [4] | | 3 | Mail, Jousting | 6 | $1,500 | 30 | 30 | [6] | | 4 | Brigandine, Light | 3 | $900 | 10 | 30 | | 4 | Brigandine, Medium | 5 | $1,800 | 20 | 30 | | 4 | Paper, Proofed | 6 | $2,000 | 45 | 20 | [1] | | 4 | Plate, Light | 3 | $1,000 | 8 | 45 | | 4 | Plate, Medium | 6 | $2,500 | 20 | 45 | | 4 | Plate, Heavy | 9 | $4,000 | 32 | 45 | Notes: * [1] Combustible. If DR is penetrated by burning damage, it can catch fire. See Making Things Burn (p. B433); treat the armor material as resistant. * [2] -1 DR vs. impaling. * [3] Semi-ablative. Loses 1 DR per 10 points of basic damage it resists (see p. B47) * [4] -1 DR vs. crushing. * [5] -2 DR vs. crushing. * [6] -1 DX, except for Lance skill. ===== Helmets ===== The first weapon specifically designed for use on humans was probably the club or mace. Since this was most often swung for the head, the helmet was likely the earliest form of armor. The oldest iconographic evidence of helmets depicts their use in Sumer at the beginning of the second millennium B.C. Early helmets were made from organic materials or copper, but bronze soon became the material of choice. Many TL1 examples consisted of small plates laced to a flexible foundation; treat these as scale armor (pp. 106-107). ====TYPES OF HELMETS==== The degree of protection that a helmet offers is a function of the material from which it’s made. For example, a Mycenaean boar’s tusk helm would be horn armor (p. 106): DR 3. Cost and weight depend on how much of the head is protected; see the descriptions below. ===Pot Helm (TL1)=== Sometimes called a skullcap or cervelliere, this is the simplest of helmets. It protects only the skull (areas 3-4), leaving face and neck completely exposed (areas 5, 17-18 get no protection – front or rear). Cost and weight are 20% of equivalent torso armor. Cloth padding gives +1 DR and adds $10, 1.2 lbs. Example: A DR 3 iron cuirass is $1,000, 8 lbs. A pot helm of DR 3 iron is thus $200, 1.6 lbs. With padding: DR 4, $210, 2.8 lbs. ===Bascinet (TL1)=== Norman cavalry are commonly depicted wearing this helm. It’s more comprehensive than the pot helm, extending down to protect the entire head except for some of the face (all of areas 3-4, plus area 5 from the back but not the front). It covers the ears – giving the wearer the Hard of Hearing disadvantage (p. B138) – but not the cheeks. Thus, it has a small chance of protecting the face: a roll of 1 on 1d. Cost and weight are 25% of torso armor. Padding (+1 DR) adds $12.50, 1.5 lbs. ===Full Helm (TL1)=== This helmet covers the skull and face, like the Greek “Corinthian” helm. Only the eyes are exposed; targeting them through the eye-slits is at -10 (see Chinks in Armor, p. 101). The wearer suffers from Hard of Hearing (p. B138) and No Peripheral Vision (p. B151). Cost and weight are 30% of torso armor. Padding (+1 DR) adds $15, 1.8 lbs. ===Coif (TL2)=== Head protection made of mail (p. 107), sometimes attached to a mail shirt like a hood. It covers the same locations as the bascinet (above), plus the neck (areas 17-18). It gives the wearer Hard of Hearing (p. B138) only if layered with padding. Cost and weight are 30% of torso armor. It’s often worn over padding (+1 DR, $15, 1.8 lbs.) and under a rigid helmet (see Layered Armor, p. 103). A coif may extend down to protect the upper chest and shoulders; add 50% of its DR to area 9, and increase cost and weight to 45% of torso armor. ===Greathelm (TL3)=== This helm is worn over another, smaller helmet, and is more common in tournaments than on the battlefield. Some versions (e.g., the great bascinet) are bolted to torso armor, and are spacious enough to allow the head to move inside. A greathelm offers excellent protection – including neck coverage – but limits head movement and perception. The wearer suffers from Hard of Hearing (p. B138) and Tunnel Vision (p. B151). Targeting eyes through the eyeslits is at -10 (see Chinks in Armor, p. 101). A greathelm is layered over another helm – an exception to Layered Armor (p. 103), which usually requires the inner layer to be flexible. Cost and weight are 35% of torso armor. Only the inner helmet requires padding. ==== Helmet Options ==== There’s more than one way to make a helmet. === Spangenhelms vs. Single-Piece Helmets === It takes great skill to fashion a helmet from a single piece of material. It’s far simpler to attach small bits of horn, leather, or metal to a framework, yielding what’s termed a spangenhelm. Spangenhelms are heavier than single-piece helmets, but easier and cheaper to make. Most historical helmets were of this type. A single-piece helmet has +9 CF and reduces weight by 25%. === Flat-Topped Helmets === Most helmets were fashioned with a domed or conical top that caused blows glance off. Some had a flat top, however. Flat helmets are easier and quicker to make, but because they’re less deflective, they require more material to provide comparable protection. -0.2 CF; increase weight by 20%. ==== FACE PROTECTION ==== Helmets that don’t cover the face – that is, everything but the full helm or greathelm – can be modified to add face protection. Each addition provides the helmet’s DR over a certain hit location and has a chance of protecting against an attack to the front of area 5. Add up the listed odds and roll 1d. If the result is equal to or less than the total, then the helmet’s DR protects the face. Example: A helm with a nasal (1/6) and full cheek guards (3/6) has a 4/6 chance of protecting the face. On a roll of 1-4, the helmet’s DR protects the face. ===Nasal=== The most common helmet addition, this consists of a vertical strip covering the nose. Some are hinged or detachable. Has a 1/6 chance of protecting the face; cost and weight are 5% of the base helmet. Example: A DR 3 iron cuirass is $1,000, 8 lbs., so a DR 4 one is $1,500, 12 lbs., and thus a DR 4 bascinet (25%) is $375, 3 lbs. A nasal for it would be 5% of that, or $18.75, 0.15 lb. Padding (+1 DR) adds $12.50, 1.5 lbs. All together, this comes to $406.25, 4.65 lbs.; has DR 5; and with the basic 1/6 odds for a bascinet, has a 2/6 chance of protecting the face. ===Brim=== This addition goes around a helmet to ward off rain and sun, but also affords limited protection against attacks. Examples include the European kettlehat and Japanese jingasa. A brim has a 1/6 chance of protecting the face, rising to 5/6 when the threat originates from above (e.g., a volley of arrows or an attack faced when assaulting a fortification from below). Cost and weight are 15% of the base helmet. ===Cheek Guards=== These pieces protect the cheeks and jaw. They’re often hinged at the top and laced together under the chin, giving a 2/6 chance of protecting the face. Cost and weight are 10% of the base helmet. Some cheek guards cover the ears, giving a 3/6 chance of protection and the Hard of Hearing disadvantage (p. B138). (The bascinet already offers ear protection.) Cost and weight are 15% of the base helmet. Adding perforations reduces the Hearing penalty to -2, but removes -2 from the penalty under Chinks in Armor (p. 101) and adds +0.2 CF. Roman legionary helmets (called galea or cassis) had cheek guards. ===Spectacles=== Metal rims that shield the eyes and have a 1/6 chance of protecting the face. They give the wearer No Peripheral Vision (p. B151), and the eyes may still be targeted at -10 (see Chinks in Armor, p. 101). Cost and weight are 5% of the base helmet. Viking helmets are commonly depicted with spectacles. ===Visor=== This represents any full-face plate or mask (like the Japanese mempo) with eye-slits and breathing perforations. It’s often hinged and/or detachable. It replaces nasal, cheek guards, and spectacles, providing a 5/6 chance of protecting the face. The eyes may be targeted at -10 (see Chinks in Armor, p. 101), and the neck is still vulnerable. The wearer has Hard of Hearing (p. B138) and No Peripheral Vision (p. B151). Adding perforations reduces the Hearing penalty to -2, but removes -2 from the penalty to target chinks in head armor. Cost and weight are 25% of the base helmet. === Plumes and Crests (TL1) === Helmets often sport plumes or crests made of feathers, bristles, or horsehair. These serve as quick identification on the battlefield (indicating Status or Military Rank) and increase the wearer’s apparent height. Horns are another form of helmet ornamentation, surprisingly common during the Bronze Age. In some cultures, these additions give +1 SM for the purpose of Intimidation (p. B202) only. They also remove -1 from penalties to grapple the head, and give +1 to Vision rolls made to spot the wearer in the midst of a group of people (such as in a battle). $20, 1 lb. ==== NECK PROTECTION ==== The neck (areas 17-18) – especially the throat – is one of the most difficult body parts to armor. It’s often one of the few places where a heavily armored man is vulnerable! For more on this hit location, see p. B399. ===Turret (TL1)=== The earliest neck protection was a large, turret- like tube that sat on the shoulders. It covered the neck and lower face (2/6 chance of protecting the face), but severely limited vision (the wearer couldn’t look down!). The only practical use seems to have been to protect chariot drivers from arrows; other soldiers, such as archers and spearmen, didn’t wear it. One was found with the Mycenaean Dendra panoply. Middle Eastern charioteers were also depicted wearing them. Cost and weight are 10% of torso armor. ===Aventail (TL2)=== This curtain of mail or light scale hangs from the bottom of a helmet, covering the neck (front and back). Cost and weight are 5% of torso armor. A lobsterback (TL2) is an aventail made from segmented plate that only protects the back of the neck. Cost and weight are 3% of torso armor. ===Mail Collar (TL2)=== A collar made from a dense weave of mail that sits rigid around the neck. Some versions use a lighter weave, stiffened with leather thongs (see Banded Mail, p. 107). Either may stand alone or be integrated into a mail shirt. Saladin is said to have worn such a collar to protect against assassination. Because it’s rigid, it isn’t susceptible to blunt trauma and doesn’t suffer reduced DR vs. crushing damage. Cost and weight are 5% of torso armor. A standard (TL3) is a mail collar extended to protect the upper chest and shoulders; add 50% of its DR to area 9. The neck guard is rigid but the drape is flexible. Cost and weight increase to 20% of torso armor. ===Ventail (TL2)=== This flap of mail is attached to a mail shirt. It’s unfolded up over the face and tied in place behind the head. The Norman “bibs” depicted on the Bayeux Tapestry are mail ventails edged with leather. The ventail protects the neck from the front only, as well as the chin (2/6 chance of protecting the face). Cost and weight are 3% of torso armor. ===Bevor (TL3)=== A rigid plate collar that extends up to protect the chin and mouth. Some chin guards were hinged or detachable. The collar shields the entire neck, while the chin guard has a 1/6 chance of protecting the face. Cost and weight are 7% of torso armor. ===Gorget (TL3)=== Worn under the cuirass, this rigid collar protects the neck and throat. At TL4, gorgets are segmented and articulated to allow better movement. Cost and weight are 5% of torso armor. ===== Shields ===== The shield was the most common piece of defensive equipment from the beginning of organized warfare until the widespread use of firearms. GURPS categorizes shields by Defense Bonus (DB). This depends on their size: small (DB 1), medium (DB 2), or large (DB 3). Only exotic abilities allow DB 4+. For more on shield DB, see pp. B287, B374. ==== SHIELD GRIPS ==== Shields are also organized according to how they’re wielded. Each grip has its own Shield skill specialty; see Shield (p. B220). These specialties default to each other at -2: Buckler: Any shield wielded with a central handgrip. You can ready it in one second and drop it as a free action. The Basic Set states that a buckler can’t be used for a shield rush (p. B406). This isn’t quite true; the Roman scutum was specifically designed for this tactic. However, it is difficult to put your full weight behind a buckler – damage is at -1, relative to a shield, in a rush. Guige: Any shield controlled by a neck strap and not the hands – it’s wielded hands-free. You can ready the shield in a number of seconds equal to its DB, and drop it in one second. You may not use it for a shield bash or a shield rush. Blocks using just the neck strap for control are at -3. See GURPS Low-Tech Companion 2 for advanced rules. Shield: Any shield held in place with arm straps. You can ready or drop it in a number of seconds equal to its DB. It can be used for a shield bash or a shield rush (p. B406). It’s less maneuverable than a buckler, and so has -1 in a Feint. === Shield Bosses === Many shields with central handgrips (bucklers) need hollows in them to make room for the wielder’s fist. This hollow is protected by a metallic dome or “boss” that’s fixed to the outside of the shield. The boss provides an additional weapon with which to strike the enemy (p. B406). Some bosses are conical, coming to a point in order to deal more damage; rules for these appear in GURPS Low-Tech Companion 2. All shields in Low-Tech are assumed to have bosses, regardless of whether they’re bucklers. ==== Types of Shields ==== Shields come in a great variety of sizes, shapes, and materials, but can be generalized into a few groups based on size and weight. A larger shield covers more of the wielder’s body, providing a higher DB. A heavier one can take more damage; rules for this appear in GURPS Low- Tech Companion 2. The shields described below are examples of specific designs, drawn from a range of cultures and locations. Historically, most societies used shields of many shapes and sizes. In principle, then, any of these types could be produced anywhere – at TL1 if it has metal components, at TL0 otherwise. In practice, while simple round and oval shields should be available in most settings, other shapes and features might only appear in particular times and places. Unless specifically noted otherwise, all of these shields are assumed to be heavier models – composites of wood, hide, and metal, with DR 4 – which are strapped to the arm. === Comanche Shield (TL0) - DB 2 === A medium shield constructed of two layers of hide laced around a wooden hoop and stuffed with feathers, hair, or grass – or paper from the books of pioneers! Treat as Fragile (Combustible) (p. B136). It’s carried over the shoulder on a neck strap (guige) when riding. === Large Shield (TL0) - DB 3 === Lighter models (TL0) are made of a single layer of hide stretched over a frame of light wood or wicker, or of several layers of hide stitched together. Heavier wooden versions (TL1) covered with leather and/or metal are common in formation fighting. Such shields were first employed by the Sumerians, but saw widespread use by many cultures. They cover the warrior from chin to shins, and can be of any shape – including oval, rectangular, scalloped, hexagonal, and figure-eight. They’re curved so that they wrap a little around the body, and usually incorporate a guige to take some of the weight off the arm. === Medium Shield (TL0) - DB 2 === Both light (TL0) and heavy (TL1) variants are constructed in a manner similar to the large shield (above), but are smaller, covering from chin to thighs. Such shields were used in some form or other by most cultures until the end of the Middle Ages. Medium shields could be many different shapes, but circular ones were by far the most common. A distinctive crescent-shaped shield (the pelta) was carried by Greek peltasts, Scythians, and other cultures in eastern Central Europe. === Mycenaean Shield (TL0) - DB 3 === A light large shield made of wicker and faced with hide. It comes in two main types: one is rectangular, with a rounded top edge, while the other is figure-eight shaped. Both are carried and wielded solely by means of a guige around the neck, enabling a long spear to be used two-handed. They’re large enough to stop most attacks, but difficult to control. === Parrying Buckler (TL0) - DB 1 === A long, very narrow buckler used in East Africa, India, and Australia. In India, it was sometimes made by joining two antelope horns. The central grip is its widest part; the shield tapers to rounded points at either end. These do crushing damage for the basic model, but metal points (TL1) can be added to permit an impaling shield bash: +1 CF. The parrying buckler provides only DB 1, but adds another +1 to Block rolls (only). === Small Shield (TL0) - DB 1 === Both light (TL0) and heavy (TL1) variants are constructed like the large and medium shields, but are even smaller – rarely longer than the forearm. They give only DB 1, but are highly maneuverable; the wielder has only -1 DX in close combat (p. B392). Middle Eastern archers sometimes carried such a shield and practiced firing “under” it by holding the shield and bow in a more horizontal position, while other fighters wielded a knife in the same hand as their shield; either gives -2 to weapon and Shield skills, and one-handed weapons suffer off-hand penalties. For more on this trick, and for rules tying DB to weapon skill penalties when using a shield, see GURPS Low-Tech Companion 2. === Homeric Buckler (TL1) - DB 2 or 3 === Homer describes these shields in some detail in the Iliad. They’re circular in shape and made of several layers of ox hide, with a bronze facing and a boss that’s sometimes fashioned into the head of a fantastic creature. Often, the bronze is elaborately decorated with embossing and enamel (styling, +4 CF). The rim is reinforced with either bronze or hide, and fastened with rivets. It has a central grip (requiring the Buckler specialty), but a guige takes some of the weight off the arm. Size ranges from medium (DB 2) to large (DB 3). Large ones are broad enough to provide shelter to a companion – usually an archer. === Argive Shield (TL2) - DB 2 === Also called the aspis (Greek for “shield”), this is a specific pattern of medium shield optimized for hoplite phalanx warfare. It’s circular in shape and deeply dished so that the rim can rest on the shoulder, eliminating the need for a guige. It’s made of wood, lined with leather, and sometimes faced with bronze. It lacks a boss; the hand slips through the central arm band and holds a grip near the rim. Only two-thirds of the shield protects the bearer. The other third projects out past his elbow, partially covering the man standing on his left. While only medium-sized, overlapping Argive shields are ideal for tight formations, and provide DB 3 when used in a shield wall. In one-on-one combat, though, they offer the medium shield’s usual DB 2. === Roman Scutum (TL2) - DB 2 or 3 === This buckler variant of the heavy large shield is made of laminated birch wood, faced with felt and edged in metal. The hand holds a horizontal handgrip in an overhand position, and is protected by a domed boss. The Republican scutum is oval in shape; at approximately 22 lbs., it’s one of the heaviest shields ever actively wielded in combat. It is ideal for shield charges and can withstand a great deal of abuse. Laminated construction adds 20% to HP, but makes cost about twice that of other large shields (as a general option, this adds +1 CF). The scutum of the Imperial period is shorter (DB 2) and has squared-off edges. It, too, is made from laminated birch – but now it’s covered in leather and faced with linen. The edge is reinforced with rawhide rather than metal. These changes make it lighter (about 16 lbs) and more maneuverable. The medium scutum is laminated, as above, doubling its price and giving 20% more HP. === Dueling Buckler (TL3) - DB 0 === The smallest of bucklers, this shield consist of little more than a boss with a handgrip. German duelists specifically trained with it, calling it a hut (“hat”). It gives no DB, but gives +1 to Block rolls (only), and provides DR 4 to the shield hand. Any buckler that’s destroyed in combat may still be wielded as a dueling buckler. === Heater Shield (TL3) - DB 2 === By the end of the 13th century, the European kite shield (below) was replaced by its smaller cousin, the heater. This still tapers to a point at the bottom, but doesn’t provide any benefit that other shapes wouldn’t – although it might be a little more manageable on horseback. Treat as a medium shield. === Kite Shield (TL3) - DB 3 === During the 11th century, this long, teardrop-shaped shield took over from the round shield as Europe’s most popular shield. It remained dominant well into the 13th century, used by both cavalry and infantry. The kite shield reaches down to protect the leading leg while in formation, and can cover the left leg when on horseback. It is constructed like a heavy large shield, but weighs less owing to its taper. === Dueling Long Shield (TL4) - DB 3 === Depicted in Renaissance fencing manuals such as Talhoffer’s Fechtbuch and the Codex Wallerstein, dueling long shields are designed for trial by combat. They’re weapons in themselves: long, narrow shields mounted on vertical poles with spikes at either end, sometimes with special cutouts that enable the attacks described under Hook (p. 54). The relevant skill is Shield at -2 or Staff at -4. Readers with GURPS Martial Arts should note that an Exotic Weapon Training perk can negate this skill penalty. ====MOVEABLE COVER (TL1)==== Some defenses are classed as cover (pp. B407-408) rather than as shields, and provide no DB. Examples are the pavise and mantlet. These barriers were most often deployed when besieging fortifications. They were handy shelters against missiles, but of little use in melee. Pavises could be carried by one man, and were designed to protect one or two people; e.g., an archer or a crossbowman, plus the pavise’s bearer (the paviser). A pavise has DR 4, HP 24, and provides cover DR 10. $120, 27 lbs. Some pavises had folding legs so that they could stand up unassisted (add $40, 1 lb.). Others had rows of large nails projecting from the face (add $50, 2 lb.). When troops had to flee, they would abandon their pavises faceup on the ground. Enough spiked pavises in the way were a handy means of deterring pursuit; treat as caltrops (p. 123). In winter campaigns, Russian troops mounted pavises on skids to make them easier to move (add $30, 2 lbs.). Mantlets were larger and could protect more men – or even provide cover to artillery – but needed several soldiers to carry and deploy. Weight scales with the number of men protected, raising HP (see p. B558); cost is proportional to weight. ===SHIELD TABLE=== See Shield Statistics (p. B287) for an explanation of the notation and abbreviations used. ^ TL ^ Shield ^ DB ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ DR/HP ^ Cover DR ^ Notes ^ | 0 | Parrying Buckler | 1 | $50 | 8 | 4/16 | 8 | [1] | | 0 | Small Shield, Light | 1 | $30 | 3 | 2/12 | 5 | | 0 | Comanche Shield | 2 | $100 | 16 | 4/21 | 9 | [2] | | 0 | Medium Shield, Light | 2 | $45 | 7 | 2/16 | 6 | | 0 | Large Shield, Light | 3 | $68 | 10 | 2/18 | 6 | | 0 | Mycenaean Shield | 3 | $58 | 9 | 2/17 | 6 | [3] | | 1 | Small Shield, Heavy | 1 | $40 | 6 | 4/15 | 7 | | 1 | Homeric Buckler, Medium | 2 | $100 | 16 | 4/21 | 9 | | 1 | Medium Shield, Heavy | 2 | $60 | 14 | 4/20 | 9 | | 1 | Homeric Buckler, Large | 3 | $150 | 20 | 4/22 | 9 | | 1 | Large Shield, Heavy | 3 | $90 | 20 | 4/22 | 9 | | 2 | Argive Shield | 2 | $120 | 15 | 4/20 | 9 | [4] | | 2 | Roman Scutum, Medium | 2 | $140 | 16 | 4/25 | 10 | [5] | | 2 | Roman Scutum, Large | 3 | $200 | 22 | 4/27 | 10 | [5] | | 3 | Dueling Buckler | 0 | $25 | 2 | 4/11 | 6 | [1] | | 3 | Heater Shield | 2 | $75 | 13 | 4/19 | 8 | | 3 | Kite Shield | 3 | $120 | 18 | 4/21 | 9 | | 4 | Dueling Long Shield | 3 | $200 | 16 | 4/21 | 9 | [6] | Notes: * [1] +1 to Block. * [2] Fragile (Combustible); see p. B136. * [3] Controlled solely by neck strap; see Shield Grips (p. 113-114). * [4] +1 DB when used in shield wall. * [5] Laminated wood (+20% HP). === Improvised Shields === Some items, such as large turtle shells, are ideal ready-made shields – just attach a handle and you’re done. This takes 20 minutes and an Armoury (Melee Weapons) roll at +5. Any large, flat object can be converted into an improvised shield by adding a handgrip this way. If there’s no time to affix a handle, then the item must be grasped by the rim. This requires two hands – so one would need at least three hands to wield a weapon simultaneously – and leaves the fingers exposed. Whenever its DB is used as part of a successful defense roll, roll 1d; on a 1, a hand is hit instead of the shield. Still, this might keep the user alive for long enough to be rescued! Examples: A frying pan, heavy book, or metal ale mug gives DB 1; a cauldron lid or chair, DB 2; and a table, DB 3. ==== Sample Armor Loadout - Roman Imperial Legionary ==== Near the end of the first century B.C., the Roman army introduced a new type of armor: a cuirass of segmented iron plates, known today as lorica segmentata. This was an early example of munitions armor, issued to men who couldn’t afford mail or a bronze cuirass (legionaries’ equipment costs were deducted from their pay!). It consisted of cheap-quality segmented plate covering the chest (areas 9-10) and shoulders. Under this went a lightly padded subarmalis, with heavily padded shoulders and a kilt of overlapping quilted linen strips (pteryges) covering the abdomen (area 11). Under this was a regular linen tunic. On the legionary’s head was an iron helmet (galea or cassis) with cheek guards and a crest. On his legs and feet, he wore shin guards (ocreae) and hobnailed sandals (caligae). He carried a rectangular medium shield (scutum). From the Armor Table (p. 111), medium segmented plate is DR 4, $900, 24 lbs. Segmentata only covers the chest, so cost and weight are 75%: $675, 18 lbs. Cheap quality is -1 DR, -0.6 CF, for DR 3, $270, 18 lbs. Shoulder protection is 10% of torso armor: $90, 2.4 lbs. Cheap quality yields DR 3, $36, 2.4 lbs. Cost and weight of armor padding are included in the Armor Table (see Layered Armor, p. 103), but the kilt isn’t. Treat it as light layered cloth: DR 2*, $150, 12 lbs. The kilt only covers the abdomen, for 25% of cost and weight: $37.50, 3 lbs. A tunic is ordinary clothing: 20% of cost of living ($300 for a poor citizen), or $60, and 2 lbs. Treat the Roman helmet as a pot helm with cheek guards. As explained in Heavy Plate (p. 109), a DR 4 plate cuirass is $1,500, 12 lbs. A pot helm is 20% of that: $300, 2.4 lbs. Cheek guards (sans ear protection) are 10% of that – or $30, 0.24 lb. – for a total $330, 2.64 lbs. Cheap quality gives DR 3, $132, 2.64 lbs. We also need helmet padding (+1 DR, $10, 1.2 lbs.) and a crest ($20, 1 lb.). This headgear comes to DR 4, $162, 4.84 lbs. Legs are protected by greaves. Starting with the DR 4 plate armor above, we note that shin armor has 50% of cost and weight, or $750, 6 lbs. As greaves cover only the front, we halve again: $375, 3 lbs. Cheap quality gives a final DR 3, $150, 3 lbs. Feet are protected by hobnailed sandals (p. 98): DR 1 (bottom only), $50, 1.5 lbs. Finally, a medium scutum (see Shield Table, p. 116) is DB 2, $140, 16 lbs. The total cost deducted from our legionary’s pay is $905.50 (although this may have been subsidized). He’ll be carrying a load of 50.74 lbs. On top of this, he must carry his weapons and marching equipment. ===== Animal Armor ===== Animals involved in combat or hunting can be armored, too – although they must be specially trained to tolerate the armor! Protection for beasts is sometimes called barding. Below are four common types. All weights and costs are given as percentages of the base figures listed for equivalent human torso armor on the Armor Table (pp. 110-111). Example: A light mail shirt is $500, 12 lbs. Light mail elephant armor (below) would cost and weigh 200% as much for the chanfron ($1,000, 24 lbs.), and 1,200% as much for the caparison ($6,000, 144 lbs.). ====Horse Armor==== Men have armored horses since the Bronze Age, when all the great civilizations from the Aegean to China fought with chariots and archers. The earliest armor was made from cloth, leather, or metal scale. Mail appeared during the Iron Age; solid plates, toward the end of the Middle Ages. Horse protection consists of one or more of the following (for important details, see the hit location table for quadrupeds on p. B553): Caparison: A flexible armored blanket (cloth, scale, or mail) covering neck, torso, groin, and legs, and reaching down to the knees or even lower (protects the legs on 1-4 on 1d). Also called a trapper, it sometimes has a hole for the saddle. Cost and weight are 500% of human torso armor. Chanfron: Head armor, protecting the skull and face. It can be made of flexible or rigid armor. Cost and weight are 50%. Crinet: Protects the neck. It can be made of flexible or rigid armor. Cost and weight are 50%. Crupper: Plate armor protecting the hindquarters and upper legs. It protects the torso on 4-6 on 1d, and the hind legs on 1-3 on 1d. Cost and weight are 150%. Flanchards: Plate armor attached to the saddle, covering the flanks. It closes the gap between crupper and peytral. Flanchards protect the torso on 1-3 on 1d. Cost and weight are 50%. Peytral: A rigid plate that protects the torso from the front only (sides and back are unprotected). Cost and weight are 100%. Armorers experimented with leg armor, but it proved impractical on the battlefield. ====Camel Armor==== Camels were sometimes armored and ridden into battle. They were covered with a chanfron (25% cost and weight) and a peytral or caparison (as Horse Armor, above). ====Elephant Armor==== Elephants were considered the ultimate shock unit. Their main role was to charge the enemy ranks, striking fear and causing men to rout, or to crash through lines of spearmen. They were also effective at countering enemy cavalry charges. India was the main region in which they were deployed, but they saw battle throughout Asia, in Africa, and even in Europe. Elephant armor consists of a chanfron on the head (200% cost and weight), and a caparison covering the body and reaching to the knees (1,200% cost and weight). These can be made of cloth, leather, scale, mail, or mail and plates. ====Dog Armor==== Dogs were used more often for hunting than for warfare, so their armor was designed to protect them from other animals – e.g., boars – rather than from humans. The most common dog armor was a heavy collar protecting the neck (5% cost and weight). Other parts of the body were covered with armor very similar to the components of horse armor (above). Find the cost and weight of equivalent horse armor, and then divide by 10 for a large dog; reduce cost and weight further for smaller breeds. ===== Clothing ===== Clothing is often the only barrier between an adventurer and frostbite, sunburn, heat stroke, or even death... not to mention social calamities. The clothes in this section are described generically, to make them useful in any setting. Specific styles are intentionally given short shrift – even a brief survey would fill the entire book! Such concerns are left to the GM. Any good reference work on historical fashions will offer a wealth of inspirational descriptions and illustrations. Note that Styling (p. 10) often applies to clothing, and that clothes come in all the usual quality levels (p. B345). Assume LC4 except where noted. ==== Clothing Types ==== These notes elaborate on the Clothing rules on p. B266. Weights assume TL7 garments; to adjust weight for other TLs, see Clothing Materials and Technology (pp. 64-65). The complete outfits below include the cost of appropriate footwear but not its weight; see Footwear (pp. 68-69) for that. === Summer Clothes === This is lightweight clothing – perhaps a thin, white Arabian thobe; ao ba ba, the black pajamas of Vietnam’s Mekong Delta region; or swim trunks and a t-shirt. It’s light, comfortable, and cool. In hot weather, loose clothes allow air to circulate and cool the body. They aren’t always white; traditional black Bedouin robes absorb more sunlight than white garments, but this actually increases sweat evaporation by drawing more air through the cloth, so they feel cooler. If robes aren’t de rigueur in the campaign’s desert climes, lightweight clothing such as pants, a long-sleeved shirt, and a broad hat will prevent sunburn (p. B434). Cost is 10% of cost of living; weight is 1 lb. === Ordinary Clothes === This is typical work wear or everyday dress for a temperate climate: military uniform, shirt and trousers, t-shirt and bib overalls, etc. Even this much clothing may increase FP costs in hot climates, as described under Fighting a Battle (p. B426). Cost is 20% of cost of living; weight is 2 lbs. === Winter Clothes === This is outdoor clothing for colder climes. It may be as simple as a jacket or a coat over ordinary clothes (above), or as specialized as insulated coveralls. In freezing temperatures, it allows a HT roll at no penalty to avoid FP loss (see p. B430). For an outfit to count as winter clothes, it must protect the whole body against heat loss – particularly feet, hands, head, and neck (e.g., waterproof boots, gloves, a warm hat, and a scarf). If there are missing items, the GM may penalize HT rolls with the -1 per item recommended on p. B345. Cost is 30% of cost of living; weight is 4 lbs. === Arctic Clothes === This is an outfit similar to winter clothes (above), but with multiple layers and a water- and windproof exterior to help retain body heat and protect against biting arctic winds. Through TL6, furs, oilcloth, and greased wool or felt are common; at TL7-8, lighter materials appear. All such clothing gives +5 to HT rolls to avoid FP or HP loss due to freezing temperatures (see p. B430). As with winter clothing, if crucial items – gloves, hat, etc. – are missing, the outfit loses much of its effectiveness. When necessary, the wearer can remove a few layers to allow arctic clothing to act as winter or ordinary clothes. Cost is 50% of cost of living; weight is 15 lbs. == Frostbite == Frostbite is acute somatic damage to exposed flesh caused by freezing. It’s distinct from FP and HP losses to hypothermia (see Cold, p. B430), which represent metabolic damage. The two effects can and often do occur simultaneously! At the GM’s option, those exposed to freezing conditions lose 1 HP on any exposed hit location per FP lost to cold. This can cripple extremities or even limbs, and is cumulative with injury due to hypothermia. === Formal Wear === Top hat and tuxedo, waistcoat and kilt, sequined evening gown and Pierre Cardin handbag . . . these are clothes for stepping out in. Fashion dictates the exact style and cut that’s “in,” but one thing is for certain: it isn’t cheap. Cost starts at 40% of cost of living; weight is 2 lbs. === High-Fashion Attire === This represents ridiculously luxurious materials crafted by the world’s top designers, with glitz and glam to the hilt. Many high-fashion designs disregard the normal conventions of dress and decorum; some seem to defy the laws of physics. The chichi fabrics are equally outrageous: lace tatted by blind nuns, Andean vicuña cashmere, handwoven Thai silks, etc. Of course, the price for an original Oscar de la Renta or Jean-Paul Gaultier is astronomical. Cost starts at 100% of cost of living for Status 2 or above; weight is 1-4 lbs. ==== Clothing Accessories ==== Trimmings help complete any outfit. Attention to such details is crucial when stepping out in high society! For men, sleeve garters adjust the one-size-fits-all sleeves of TL5 shirts. Cufflinks are another important accessory – required for TL5 and often TL6 shirts, which lack cuff buttons, and stylish even today. During all of TL5-8, a necktie or a cravat adds color and distinction to a shirt. Well into TL7, hat, handkerchief, and pocketknife are also considered part of any respectable gent’s ensemble. For women, hosiery is a top priority through TL5-8. This includes leg garters in the days before nylon pantyhose, which stays up on its own (TL7). Trends in hats, gloves, handbags, and so on fluctuate annually. Veils are common in many times and places – for modesty, mystique, or protection from sunlight, dust, and insects. Characters start with accessories appropriate to their Status. Bought separately, such items cost 1% of cost of living per “outfit.” Weight is negligible. === Special Clothing === Certain “extras” can add functionality and/or flair to any of the outfits above. ==Hat (TL5)== Historically, man has worn many types of head coverings. Materials include wool (often felt), cotton, and leather. Styles, too, are highly variable – baseball caps, cowboy hats, derbies, fedoras, watch caps, and so on. Hats prevent sunburn, retain body heat, and/or keep rain out of the wearer’s face. They can be decorative or utilitarian, distinctive or ubiquitous (perhaps even helping someone blend into the crowd). Prices run from around 1% of cost of living for cloth caps to 10% of cost of living for leather or felt hats. Weight is negligible for most cloth; 0.5-1 lb. for leather or felt. ==Long Coat (TL5)== This is a trench coat, duster, overcoat, or similar item that covers the torso and extends to the knees or below. It can easily conceal bulky items (+4 to Holdout) but may look out-of-place in certain settings. It can be bought as undercover clothing (below) to increase its Holdout bonus. A leather version (x5 cost, x2 weight) gives DR 1. $50, 5 lbs. ==Undercover Clothing (TL5)== Clothing designed to hide things gives a Holdout bonus, cumulative with that for a concealable holster (p. 154). This may be accomplished through a special cut, hidden pockets and reinforcements, panels, etc. An outfit that gives +1 (quality) to Holdout has 5x its usual cost; +2 (quality) is 20x normal cost. ==Wet-Weather Gear (TL5)== Rain and spray can greatly reduce the effectiveness of clothing in cold weather (see Cold, p. B430). At TL5-6, wet-weather gear is a thick “gum” blanket or poncho; at TL7-8, it’s a lightweight synthetic suit. Because of their bulk, ponchos and the like grant +4 to Holdout when trying to conceal gear on the body. Cost and weight are as for ordinary clothes of the appropriate TL. ==Wicking Undergarment (TL8)== This special clothing was originally designed to be worn under body armor and later adapted for athletic use. Its fibers draw moisture away from the skin, helping keep the wearer dry and facilitating evaporative cooling. Gives +1 to all HT and HT-based rolls to avoid FP loss in hot weather (see Heat, p. B434). $30, neg. ====Clothing Materials and Technology==== The materials and features available for clothing advance alongside the rest of technology. Still, many people at TL8 happily wear clothes that have changed little since TL6 – even if soldiers and athletes favor state-of-the-art outfits. High-Tech splits the difference and uses TL7 as its baseline. ==TL5== At TL5, clothing is made from natural materials. Wool is a common choice in Europe and North America, but while sturdy, warm, and attractive, it is stifling in hot weather, absorbs and retains water (and dries slowly), and is difficult to keep clean. Cotton, breathable and lightweight, is popular in warmer areas. In colder climes, fur or fur-lined clothing is usual – fox, caribou, reindeer, bison, etc. Winter or arctic clothes made from fur are often heavy and cumbersome, but may provide DR 1 (GM’s option). Most waterproof clothing at TL5 is made of oilcloth: heavy canvas treated with oil and/or paraffin. At mid-TL5, an alternative is a stiff “gum” fabric painted with rubber. A rubberized coat is called a “slicker” – or sometimes a “Mackintosh,” in honor of its inventor. The principal fasteners at TL5 are buckles and buttons, although brass eyelets and hook-and-eye arrangements also see use. Easily lost buttons combined with easily soiled natural fabrics make it challenging to keep clothes serviceable and attractive. Housekeeping (p. B200) and Sewing (p. B219) are vital maintenance skills! ==TL6== With TL6 come many improvements. The garment industry takes its first steps into the Plastic Age with Bakelite buttons, PVC-impregnated hats, and two light, comfortable, and attractive fabrics: rayon and nylon. Less obvious but no less important is the standardization of clothing sizes. Two innovative fasteners appear at TL6: the metal snap and the awkwardly named “Automatic, Continuous Clothing Closure.” The latter becomes famous as the “zipper” after the B.F. Goodrich Co. uses it on its Zipper-brand galoshes. The zipper quickly spreads from the footwear business to the entire clothing industry. A more prosaic TL6 development is the belt loop. Previously, suspenders were the accessory of choice for holding up trousers, while a belt was considered a tool for carrying equipment. The famous miner’s “waist overalls” sold by Levi Strauss didn’t incorporate belt loops until 1922. Foul-weather gear improves during TL6, too. Quilted goose-down clothing – first sold as the Skyliner jacket by Seattle outfitter Eddie Bauer – reduces the bulk of arctic clothes. Vinyl-treated cloth makes a lightweight, if flimsy, waterproof overcoat. ==TL7== Synthetic fabrics continue to play a major role at TL7, as acrylic, polyester, and Dacron usher in the age of wash-and-wear clothing. These materials require much less maintenance than wool and other natural textiles, yet can be just as attractive. The first generation of synthetic insulation emerges, too, in the form of Lycra (also called Spandex) and polypropylene. Hook-and-loop fasteners, such as the popular Velcro brand, are another TL7 creation. ==TL8== At TL8, breathable, waterproof fabrics revolutionize active wear. Acrylic fleece and lightweight synthetic insulation dramatically reduce the weight and bulk of cold-weather clothing. Natural fibers meet synthetic treatments in the form of “microfiber”: fabrics woven from threads a fraction the thickness of a human hair. The resulting clothing is water- and stain-resistant, attractive, and comfortable – it can handle the toughest punishment and still look good. ===Clothing Technology Table=== This table shows how the innovations in Clothing Materials and Technology (pp. 64-65) affect the weight of the outfits under Clothing Types (p. 63). Select the outfit’s type and TL, and multiply its weight by the corresponding factor in the table; e.g., TL8 arctic clothes weigh 15 lbs. x 0.5 = 7.5 lbs. ^ Type ^ TL5 ^ TL6 ^ TL7 ^ TL8 ^ | Any but Arctic | x2 | x2 | x1 | x0.5 | | Arctic | x1.5 | x1.25 | x1 | x0.5 | ===== ARMOR AND PROTECTIVE GEAR ===== A wide array of armor and protective equipment appears at TL5-8. These items are listed in approximate order of appearance within their TL, to make it easier for the GM to decide whether they exist yet in a campaign set at that TL. See Armor Tables (p. B282) for an explanation of the notation and abbreviations used in this section’s tables. === Hitting ’Em Where It Hurts === The Basic Set takes an all-or-nothing approach to armor coverage: an armored hit location is completely covered, or nearly so (see Targeting Chinks in Armor, p. B400). For extra detail, use the following rules. A hit location may be covered by one or more pieces of armor which provide only an n-in-6 chance of protection. Add n if multiple items protect the hit location. Roll 1d whenever such a partially armored location is hit. On a roll equal to or less than n, DR protects. An attacker can attempt to strike around partial armor. This gives a penalty over and above that for hit location: -(n-1), but never better than -1. That is, -1 for 1/6 or 2/6, -2 for 3/6, -3 for 4/6, or -4 for 5/6. ==== BODY ARMOR ==== Body armor is heavy, and stifling even in temperate conditions. In hot weather, it increases FP costs (see Fighting a Battle, p. B426) and can contribute to heatstroke (see Heat, p. B434). To mitigate heat problems, use a climate-control system (p. 74) or wear a wicking undergarment (p. 64). === High-Tech Low-Tech === Versions of the low-tech armor on pp. B283-284 still see use at TL5-8. Notably, scuba divers and industrial workers wear high-tech mail, while reenactors construct modern versions of ancient armor from TL8 materials. Steel (TL5). Metal armor (mail, scale, plate, etc.) and shields built using TL5+ steel and machining enjoy twice the DR of their low-tech equivalents; cost and weight don’t change. Alternatively, halve cost and weight without doubling DR. Smart Foam (TL8). This foam is made from “shear thickening liquid” – a substance that is normally quite flexible but becomes rigid on impact. It’s concealable under normal clothing. It provides DR 4 vs. crushing damage, DR 1 vs. all other damage. Weighs the same as cloth armor, but cost is x10. Titanium (TL8). Metal armor and shields made of titanium offer the same DR as their low-tech equivalents at 1/3 normal weight. Cost is x5. === Torso Armor === Steel Vest (TL5). A concealable armor vest, relatively lightweight and cheap. An example is the Soldiers’ Bullet Proof Vest, produced by carriage-maker G. & D. Cook & Co. of New Haven, Connecticut during the American Civil War. It was a standard, military-style blue vest with pockets for two steel plates in the front. These overlapped in the center where the vest buttoned. Infantrymen thought it too heavy and hot during long marches – and of little value against musket fire in any event. Nevertheless, it was a common sight on the battlefield. Legend has it that Wyatt Earp wore one, although he vehemently denied it. Steel Corselet (TL5). The body armor of the heavy cavalryman. Before WWI, every major European government had at least one regiment of cuirassiers – big men on big horses, trained to charge home with the sword. Their armor was highly polished for show (and often used as a mirror!), but had a cloth cover for field duty. Silk Vest (TL6). A thickly padded silk vest of the type often worn by affluent gentlemen. Most observers who notice it are unlikely to assume that it’s armor. A famous example is the tightly woven vest that Catholic priest Casimir Zeglen developed after the 1893 murder of a popular Chicago mayor. The London Daily Mail reported that none other than Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Hapsburg dynasty, was wearing such a vest the day he was assassinated; other accounts suggest that he declined to wear it in Sarajevo’s stifling heat. Regardless, the bullet struck him in the neck and he bled to death in minutes from a severed jugular vein. During the Russo-Japanese War, 50,000 vests with a steel plate sandwiched between silk padding were issued to Russian troops. Composite Body Armor (TL6). A cuirass and groin protector made from layers of resin-impregnated silk, linen, and cotton. An example is the Chemico Body Shield, made by the Country Chemical Company of Birmingham, England. About an inch thick, it had a duck cloth cover with ammunition pockets on the front. It was the only practical body armor issued to British troops during WWI – and only from 1917. Sentry Armor (TL6). A steel breastplate such as the Infanterie-Panzer, worn by German soldiers during WWI. Nicknamed Sappenpanzer (“trench armor”), some 500,000 were issued – mostly to machine gunners and sentries. Light Body Armor (TL6). Steel armor with thick, spongerubber padding. It covers both front and back, and is designed to protect against shell splinters and pistol bullets. Arm and leg protection is also available (pp. 67-68). The Engineering Division of the U.S. Ordnance Department developed it during WWI. Mainly experimental, but small lots were sent to France in the war’s closing days. Bulletproof Vest (TL6). A vest of overlapping steel plates riveted between layers of cloth, made to look like an ordinary suit vest. It covers the front and back of the torso. In the 1920s and 1930s, Elliott Wisbrod’s Armored Police Vest Company marketed a concealable vest that became a favorite of criminals and government agents alike; the Dunrite Manufacturing Company sold similar body armor. Wisbrod launched a unique national publicity campaign to demonstrate his confidence in his product: he was shot in the chest in front of crowds of police officers, city officials, and curious onlookers in cities all over the U.S.! His campaign worked. Baby Face Nelson and John Dillinger were repeat customers, and even Franklin Roosevelt and Joseph Stalin were reported to have worn Wisbrod vests. Japanese troops during WWII wore similar gear. Flak Vest (TL7). “Flak” is an abbreviation for Fliegerabwehrkanone, German for “anti-aircraft gun.” The flak vests of WWII were designed to protect flight crews against anti-aircraft shell bursts. The American M1 was made of Hadfield manganese steel riveted to a nylon backing. It was heavy, bulky, and not designed to be concealed. Fragmentation Vest (TL7). A nylon vest with aluminum plate inserts to shield the vitals from the front. It’s intended to protect against fragments from artillery and hand grenades, not to stop bullets. The U.S. Marine Corps ordered 50,000 such vests in the closing days of WWII – too late to see action in that conflict. They were used extensively in Korea, however. Improved Fragmentation Vest (TL7). A typical protective vest constructed of ballistic nylon or similar fibers. Examples include the U.S. M1952 and M69, worn by American ground troops in the Korean and Vietnam Wars. Some models can be fitted with heavy ceramic-fiberglass plates; vehicle drivers, tankers, and boat crews were issued such plates in Vietnam. The table lists the vest, plus a set of front and back plates (7.5 lbs. apiece). Aircrew Armor (TL7). A rigid aluminum oxide and glassreinforced plate inside a ballistic nylon carrier. Such armor was issued by the U.S. Army from 1966; helicopter crews called it “chicken plate.” The table entry assumes a vest with only a single plate in the front of the carrier, as worn by pilots and copilots. Helicopter door gunners wore a back plate as well. This provides protection for the front and back of the torso, but increases cost to $1,100 and weight to 34 lbs. Shoulder Pads (TL7). This is gridiron armor for American-style football. It protects the upper torso and shoulders. Fragmentation Vest (TL8). At TL8, frag vests use aramid fibers that are five times stronger than steel. An example is the Personnel Armor System for Ground Troops (PASGT) vest, adopted by the U.S. Army in 1976. Later versions – such as Germany’s Mehler Splitterschutzweste MIL-120 – are much lighter (5.7 lbs.) and better-designed. In the 1990s, the PASGT vest was upgraded with a carrier for ceramic plates (8 lbs. each) and called the Interim Small Arms Protective Overvest, or ISAPO (DR 30, $700, 25 lbs.). Early Concealable Vest (TL8). A concealable vest representative of those on the market since the late 1970s. It may be available in TL7 campaigns set during this period (GM’s option). Concealable Vest (TL8). The lightest and most concealable protective vest currently on the market. It can be fitted with a trauma plate. Assault Vest (TL8). A heavy ballistic vest, worn by SWAT teams and soldiers. The removable trauma plates provide protection against rifle-caliber weapons; the groin protector is also detachable. The Interceptor OTV (Outer Tactical Vest) is the current U.S. military-issue vest in Iraq and Afghanistan. Anti-Stab Vest (TL8). A tight-weave ballistic vest – like those in the EnGarde Eagle Eye series – that can stop impaling damage as well as other attacks. It’s worn by corrections officers, and by police in areas with high levels of violent crime that doesn’t involve firearms (stabbings, beatings, etc.). Advanced Body Armor (TL8). Pinnacle Armor’s SOV looks like a run-of-the-mill tactical ballistic vest – albeit thinner – but is much more advanced. Instead of relying on bulky plates, it takes a so-called “scalar” approach, using overlapping ballistic-resistant scales (each 2”-3” in diameter) made from a patented titanium-ceramic matrix. This makes it the only concealable vest capable of resisting rifle fire over the whole torso rather than just the vitals. Gives +4 (quality) to Holdout attempts to conceal it. === Trauma Plates (TL8) === At TL8, soft ballistic vests typically have built-in pockets for removable “trauma plates” or “anti-stab plates.” Such plates increase the armor’s cost and weight, but significantly enhance the protection it affords. Assume that plates are available for any flexible torso armor. Ballistic plates are rigid, and greatly increase a vest’s bulk. Those made from ceramic are also brittle – they work by cracking, which absorbs some of the bullet’s energy, and lose effectiveness after a small number of shots. The GM who enjoys gritty realism may treat trauma plates as semi-ablative DR (p. B47). Anti-Stab Plate (TL8). A small plate of lightweight metal alloy, intended for protection against knife attacks, not firearms. It covers the vitals from the front only. Gives +4 DR. $150, 0.5 lb. LC3. Small Trauma Plate (TL8). A small ceramic plate that protects the vitals from the front only. Gives +25 DR. $250, 3 lbs. LC3. Trauma Plate (TL8). A large ceramic plate that protects the entire torso from either the front or the back – two are needed for full torso coverage. Gives +25 DR. $500, 4 lbs. LC3. === Dirty Tech: Homemade Armor === Layers of paper (newspapers, magazines, etc.) and duct tape can be fashioned into a thick vest capable of providing some protection against knives, shotgun pellets, and shell fragments. It won’t tolerate water, though, and will come apart in damp weather. Constructing it requires an Armoury (Body Armor) roll at +5 – an IQ roll, if working at default – and 30 minutes’ work. Gives the torso DR 3. 18 lbs. A pair of heavy snips or bolt cutters can turn a plastic bucket or barrel into a quick-and-dirty lorica segmentata (p. B283). This requires an Armoury (Body Armor) roll at +3 and 3 hours’ work. Gives the torso DR 3. 11 lbs. In a post-apocalyptic setting, those with the Armoury (Body Armor) skill and suitable tools can recycle old road signs and car bodies into real shields and armor. ===Torso Armor Table=== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 5 | Steel Vest | torso | 5F | $150 | 7 | 4 | [1] | | 5 | Steel Corselet | torso | 10 | $600 | 12 | 4 | | 6 | Silk Vest | torso | 4/2* | $800 | 6 | 4 | [1, 2] | | | + Steel Plate | torso | +5F | +$400 | +6 | 4 | | 6 | Composite Body Armor | torso, groin | 4 | $150 | 6 | 4 | | 6 | Sentry Armor | torso, groin | 14F | $300 | 20 | 4 | | 6 | Light Body Armor | torso, groin | 5 | $1,000 | 9 | 4 | [1] | | 6 | Bulletproof Vest | torso | 6 | $750 | 8 | 4 | [1] | | 7 | Flak Vest | torso | 7 | $500 | 20 | 4 | | 7 | Fragmentation Vest | torso, groin | 6 | $200 | 13.5 | 4 | [3] | | 7 | Improved Fragmentation Vest | torso | 4/2* | $400 | 8 | 3 | [2] | | | + Trauma Plates | torso | +18 | +$3,600 | +15 | 2 | | 7 | Aircrew Armor | torso | 20F | $600 | 15 | 3 | | 7 | Shoulder Pads | torso, arms | 3/1 | $50 | 5 | 4 | [4] | | 8 | Fragmentation Vest | torso, groin | 5/2* | $350 | 9 | 3 | [2] | | | + Trauma Plates | torso | +25 | +$350 | +16 | 2 | | 8 | Early Concealable Vest | torso | 8/2* | $200 | 2.5 | 3 | [1, 2] | | 8 | Concealable Vest | torso | 12/5* | $1,000 | 2 | 3 | [1, 2] | | 8 | Assault Vest | torso, groin | 12/5* | $900 | 8 | 2 | [2] | | | + Trauma Plates | torso | +23 | +$600 | +8 | 2 | | 8 | Anti-Stab Vest | torso | 5F* | $300 | 4 | 4 | | 8 | Advanced Body Armor | torso | 35/5* | $4,600 | 17 | 2 | [1, 5] | Notes: * [1] Concealable as or under clothing. * [2] Split DR: use the first, higher DR against piercing and cutting attacks; use the second, lower DR against all other damage types. * [3] Provides DR 8 to the vitals from the front. * [4] Protects the torso (1/6) and arms (1/6). Use DR 3 against crushing attacks; use DR 1 against all other damage types. Gives +1 to damage inflicted and DR 3 against damage received when making a slam (p. B371). * [5] Use the lower DR versus crushing attacks only. === Concealing Armor === To conceal armor from somebody who’s looking for it, you must win a Quick Contest of Holdout (p. B200) vs. his Search skill (p. B219). Holdout suffers a penalty equal to DR for rigid armor, DR/3 (round up) for flexible armor. Armor designed specifically to be concealed gives +1 to +4 toward negating this penalty. Also add the bonus for clothes worn over the armor (e.g., Long Coat, p. 64, and Undercover Clothing, p. 64). Range penalties apply to Search. === Limb Armor === While neither as popular nor as essential as torso armor (pp. 65-67) and headgear (pp. 69-70), limb armor has occasionally found its way onto the modern battlefield. These items protect the entire length of the limb – and both its front and its back – unless specified otherwise. Exceptions use the notation explained in Hitting ’Em Where It Hurts (p. 69). Chaps (TL5). Chaparreras are worn by cowboys to protect from thorns and scrub brush while working cattle. Shin Guards (TL5). Steel greaves were developed for soldiers during the American Civil War, but used only briefly. They protect only the lower leg (2/6 protection) – and only from the front. Light Body Armor (TL6). This is part of the experimental steel armor developed for trench fighting during WWI (see also “Light Body Armor” under Torso Armor, p. 66). While 50 sets were shipped to France before the Armistice, it’s doubtful that any of it saw combat. It has foam-rubber backing and is painted a dull khaki or olive drab color. The armor covers most of the limb (5/6 protection). Aircrew Leg Armor (TL7). A heavy ballistic shin guard of the type worn by helicopter crewmen during the Vietnam conflict. It protects the front of the lower leg, from just above the knee to the ankle (3/6 protection). Riot Gear (TL7). A set of leggings and sleeves made from thick plastic backed with padding. It’s worn by riot-control and corrections officers. It can blunt the impact of a thrown rock or brick, and is light enough to wear in a foot chase. Very similar armor is used in many contact sports. Ballistic Leggings (TL8). Flexible, ballistic-fabric leggings, worn by assault troops. They’re bulky and not easily concealed. Sharp-Protective Armor (TL8). A layer of ballistic fiber worn by corrections officers, lumberjacks, and industrial workers exposed to “sharps” during the work day. It’s easily concealed under clothing. Deltoid and Axillary Protectors (DAP) (TL8). “DAP” is military-speak for an upper-arm protector worn with an assault vest. The flexible ballistic cloth covers from just above the elbows to the shoulders (2/6 protection). ===Limb Armor Table=== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 5 | Chaps | legs | 1* | $40 | 2 | 4 | | 5 | Shin Guards | legs | 4F | $50 | 1.5 | 4 | | 6 | Light Body Armor | arms | 4 | $300 | 5 | 4 | | 6 | Light Body Armor | legs | 4 | $350 | 8 | 4 | | 7 | Aircrew Leg Armor | legs | 15F | $200 | 18 | 3 | | 7 | Riot Gear | arms | 3 | $100 | 2 | 4 | | 7 | Riot Gear | legs | 3 | $100 | 4 | 4 | | 8 | Ballistic Leggings | legs | 12/5F* | $400 | 8 | 4 | [1] | | 8 | Sharp-Protective Armor | arms | 3/1* | $100 | 2 | 4 | [2, 3] | | 8 | Sharp-Protective Armor | legs | 3/1* | $100 | 4 | 4 | [2, 3] | | 8 | DAP | arms | 8/2* | $200 | 5 | 4 | [1] | Notes: * [1] Split DR: use the first, higher DR against piercing and cutting attacks; use the second, lower DR against all other damage types. * [2] Split DR: use the first, higher DR against impaling and cutting attacks; use the second, lower DR against all other damage types. * [3] Concealable as or under clothing. ===Footwear=== At TL5, shoes are a simple affair, only approximately sized to the feet, with square toes. There’s no such thing as a right/left pair. Leather or canvas gaiters are worn to protect the tops of the shoes, shoelaces, and calves. At TL6, shoes are built for either the left foot or the right foot, and come in standard sizes. Other advances include rubber soles, steel shanks for arch support, and waterproofing. At TL7-8, synthetic footwear is breathable and long-wearing, with athletic shoes becoming much better fitting and more supportive. Footwear can be a deciding factor in the success of a stealthy approach. Some of the footgear described below gives a modifier to the wearer’s Stealth skill when trying to move silently. Items that list neither a penalty nor a bonus have no effect on Stealth. Boots (TL5). Standard Wellington or “cowboy”-type boots, in either a pull-on or lace-up version. High heels keep the feet from slipping through saddle stirrups. At higher TLs, these are rugged work boots, combat boots, or hiking boots. Boots, Arctic (TL5). Heavily insulated and waterproof boots. At TL7-8, double price but halve weight. Arctic boots are often worn with crampons (p. 56). -1 to Stealth. Boots, High (TL5). Bucket boots were popular in the 1700s. These pull-on riding boots extend to the knees or even mid-thigh. Wearers often turn down the high tops, pirate fashion. Moccasins (TL5). Light, thin leather footwear preferred by hunters, Indians, and other people who need to move quietly. Use the same statistics for any light, functional shoes; e.g., Japanese tabi. +1 to Stealth. Cleats (TL6). Athletic shoes fitted with spikes. They give Terrain Adaptation (Mud and Dirt). -1 to Stealth on tile floors, concrete, bare rock, etc. Sneakers (TL6). Duck cloth uppers vulcanized to thick rubber soles. Later TLs introduce air-cushioned soles, zippered pockets, and even tiny impact-activated lights. +1 to Stealth. Boots, Steel-Toed (TL6). Industrial or construction boots, with a box of metal around the toes. Boots, Jungle (TL7). Boots with steel shanks in the soles for protection against attacks from below (nails, spiked pits, caltrops, etc.). Boots, Blast (TL7). A pair of clumsy, heavy boots, worn by explosive ordnance disposal (EOD) personnel when clearing minefields. They have ballistic material in the soles to protect against attacks from below. -1 to Stealth. Boots, Firefighter (TL8). These rubber-soled, waterproof boots are nearly indestructible. They have steel toes, and steel shanks protect the bottom of the feet. -1 to Stealth. Shoes, Climbing (TL8). Shoes with sticky rubber soles that are soft and pliable enough to allow the wearer to feel the surface beneath his feet. Give +1 to Climbing when scaling a vertical stone wall or other slick surface (see Climbing, p. B349). +1 to Stealth. === My Sore, Aching Feet! === Those trekking off into danger wearing footwear that hasn’t yet been “broken in” must make a HT, Hiking, or HT-based Soldier roll. Equipment Modifiers (p. B345) apply for custom-made footwear, which is of good or fine quality. Success means the footwear breaks in quickly, with a minimum of discomfort. Failure results in moderate pain (p. B428) for 2d days. Critical failure leads to terrible pain or even a crippled foot – GM’s decision. === Footwear Table === ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 5 | Boots | feet | 2* | $80 | 3 | 4 | [1, 2] | | 5 | Boots, Arctic | feet | 2* | $150 | 6 | 4 | [1, 2] | | 5 | Boots, High | feet | 2* | $100 | 6 | 4 | [1, 2, 3] | | 5 | Moccasins | feet | 1* | $40 | 1 | 4 | [1] | | 6 | Cleats | feet | 1* | $50 | 2 | 4 | [2] | | 6 | Sneakers | feet | 1* | $40 | 2 | 4 | [1] | | 6 | Boots, Steel-Toed | feet | 6/2 | $100 | 4 | 4 | [1, 2, 4] | | 7 | Boots, Jungle | feet | 3/2 | $75 | 3 | 4 | [1, 2, 5] | | 7 | Boots, Blast | feet | 15/2 | $350 | 5 | 3 | [2, 5] | | 8 | Boots, Firefighter | feet | 6/3 | $250 | 7 | 4 | [2, 4, 5] | | 8 | Shoes, Climbing | feet | 1* | $80 | 1 | 4 | [1] | Notes: * [1] Concealable as or under clothing. * [2] Give +1 to kicking damage (p. B271). * [3] With the tops turned up, provide 3/6 protection to the legs; see Hitting ’Em Where It Hurts (p. 69). * [4] Split DR: use the first, higher DR when – in the GM’s opinion – the boot’s steel toe box would protect (e.g., dropping an item on the foot or crushing the toes in heavy machinery) or when an attack on the foot hits the toe (2/6 protection); use the second, lower DR against all other attacks. * [5] Split DR: use the higher DR when an attack strikes foot from beneath. ===Gloves=== Hockey Glove (TL7). A modern padded sports glove for one hand. Gives Ham-Fisted 1 (p. B138) when using that hand for fine work. Frisk Gloves (TL8). Policemen often wear thin leather gloves with ballistic fiber liners which provide some protection against “sharps”: needles and other objects that might stick or cut an officer during a pat-down search. Sharp-Protective Gloves (TL8). Gloves that protect the hands much as sharp-protective armor (p. 67) protects the limbs. ===Gloves Table=== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 7 | Hockey Glove | hand | 3 | $50 | 2 | 4 | | 8 | Frisk Gloves | hands | 1* | $50 | 0.5 | 4 | [1] | | 8 | Sharp-Protective Gloves | hands | 3/1* | $30 | 1 | 4 | [1, 2] | Notes: [1] Concealable as or under clothing. [2] Split DR: use the first, higher DR against impaling and cutting attacks; use the second, lower DR against all other damage types. ===Headgear=== Skullcap (TL5). A thin metal plate designed to be worn under a hat. Skullcaps were relatively common in the civilian market throughout TL5-6. The French army issued such a cap to its soldiers in 1915. Stock (TL5). A stiff leather collar buckled around the throat to protect against cutlass or saber blows. Many soldiers wore a stock, but the United States Marines were so strongly associated with the black leather stocks they wore until 1872 that Marines are sometimes called “leathernecks” even today. Cavalry Helmet (TL6). A cuirassier’s stainless-steel or nickel-plated dress helmet. Polished to a mirror finish, it has a cloth cover for field use. It’s worn with the steel corselet (p. 65). Early Firefighter’s Helmet (TL6). This traditional firehelmet design has a high crown with a shield in front bearing fire-company markings, and a wide brim long enough in the back to keep water and debris off the firefighter’s neck and out of his coat. Heavy Helmet (TL6). A heavy steel helmet, such as the German Stahlhelm (“steel helmet”) of WWI. A strap-on brow reinforcement of heavy steel plate is sometimes issued to machine gunners and trench sentries. This addition protects the skull from the front (+15 DR, +$10, +5 lbs.). Leather Helmet (TL6). The famous “Snoopy”-style skullcap worn by aviators, tankers, paratroopers, and even athletes. It has ear flaps and thick padding. Later models have built-in headphones and steel plates, greatly increasing protection (+4 DR, +$50, +2 lbs.). Light Helmet (TL6). This “Brodie pattern” helmet is the standard British and American helmet from WWI through WWII. The “tin hat” or “battle bowler” is a shallow helmet with wide brim. Medium Helmet (TL6). A well-designed steel helmet, such as the M1 “steel pot” worn by American soldiers from 1942 to the mid-1980s. The removable liner can be worn on its own (DR 1, $10, 1 lb.). Frag Helmet (TL7). A ballistic resin pressed into a helmet shape, like the American PASGT helmet. The visor is worn for riot duty, as protection against rocks and other thrown projectiles. Hard Hat (TL7). A lightweight aluminum “skull bucket” for construction sites. At TL8, it’s made from nonconductive plastic and costs half as much. Modern Firefighter’s Helmet (TL7). Identical in shape to a leather firefighter’s helmet, but the shell is made from heatresistant plastic. It has a visor that can be flipped down to protect the face, and a clamp on the side to mount a small flashlight. Motorcycle Helmet (TL7). A full-face, energy-absorbing shell designed to protect a motorcyclist’s head from impact in a wipeout. Ballistic Helmet (TL8). An improved ballistic helmet, such as the U.S. Army’s MICH (Modular/Integrated Communications Helmet). It has attachment points for night-vision goggles and flashlights. Some include a removable ballistic visor for close-quarters battle. Football Helmet (TL8). A heavy-duty sports helmet with a full facemask, designed to absorb and dissipate heavy impacts. Hockey Helmet (TL8). A sports helmet of the sort used by recreational skaters, snowboarders, climbers, and so on. Light assault forces sometimes wear it for protection against falls and general bumps and bruises. Riot Helmet (TL8). A riot or corrections helmet has a metal cage – much like a football helmet (above) – but adds a full polycarbonate “splatter shield” over the mask to block contact with biological hazards. The design allows the user to wear a gas mask underneath. ===Headgear Table=== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 5 | Skullcap | skull | 3 | $50 | 1 | 4 | [1] | | 5 | Stock | neck | 2 | $10 | 0.5 | 4 | | 6 | Cavalry Helmet | skull | 4 | $100 | 3 | 4 | | 6 | Early Firefighter’s Helmet | skull | 2 | $20 | 1 | 4 | | 6 | Heavy Helmet | skull | 6 | $100 | 5 | 4 | | 6 | Leather Helmet | skull | 2 | $20 | 1 | 4 | [1] | | 6 | Light Helmet | skull | 3 | $40 | 2 | 4 | | 6 | Medium Helmet | skull | 4 | $60 | 3 | 4 | | 7 | Frag Helmet | skull | 5 | $125 | 3 | 4 | | | + Visor | eyes, face | 1 | +$25 | +1.5 | 4 | | 7 | Hard Hat | skull | 4/2 | $50 | 1 | 4 | [2] | | 7 | Modern Firefighter’s Helmet | skull | 5 | $250 | 2.5 | 4 | | | + Visor | eyes, face | 1 | +$50 | +0.5 | 4 | | 7 | Motorcycle Helmet | head | 6/3 | $200 | 3 | 4 | [2] | | | + Visor | eyes, face | 1 | +$50 | +0.5 | 4 | | 8 | Ballistic Helmet | skull | 12 | $250 | 3 | 3 | | | + Visor | eyes, face | 10 | +$200 | +1.4 | 3 | | 8 | Football Helmet | skull, face | 6/3 | $150 | 3 | 4 | [2] | | 8 | Hockey Helmet | skull 2/1 | $50 | 2 | 4 | [2] | | 8 | Riot Helmet | skull, face | 6 | $200 | 3 | 4 | | | + Visor | eyes, face | 1 | +$50 | +0.5 | 4 | Notes: * [1] Concealable as or under clothing. * [2] Split DR: use the first, higher DR against crushing attacks; use the second, lower DR against all other damage types. === Ear Protection === Explosions, firearms, motorcycles, and power tools are loud enough to cause temporary Hearing penalties. All have the potential to inflict Hard of Hearing (p. B138) over time. Shooters use a variety of means to prevent such damage. Tactical teams often wear an earplug in one ear and a radio earbud (see Headsets and Microphones, p. 39) in the other. All of these measures grant Protected Hearing (p. B78). Earmuffs (TL6). Give Protected Hearing and Hard of Hearing while worn. $200, 1 lb. LC4. Earplugs (TL7). Give Protected Hearing and Hard of Hearing while worn. $1, neg. LC4. Electronic Earmuffs (TL8). Filter out loud noises electronically but still allow normal conversation. Provide Protected Hearing while worn. $100, 1 lb., XS/100 hrs. LC4. Electronic Earplugs (TL8). As electronic earmuffs (above), but fit completely inside the ear. $1,500, neg., T/400 hrs. LC4. === Eye Protection === Protective goggles and glasses were widely used by cyclists and aviators in WWI, and went on to become standard props for adventurers. Most grant defensive advantages while worn. All require a Ready maneuver to don or remove. ===Goggles=== The purpose of goggles is to form a seal around the eyes to keep out damaging dust, smoke, and other particles. Dive Mask (TL6). A basic swimming or scuba mask grants Nictitating Membrane 1 (p. B71). $25, 1 lb. LC4. Goggles (TL6). Glass goggles, with leather fittings. They give Nictitating Membrane 1 – but hits that penetrate the DR 1 this provides may cause extra damage! Some are tinted, and also grant Protected Vision (p. B78) against bright ordinary light (not lasers, etc.). $20, neg. LC4. Anti-Laser Goggles (TL8). With the growing threat of dazzle lasers, modern military forces began to field antilaser goggles in the 1990s. These provide both Protected Vision and Nictitating Membrane 4. $200, neg. LC4. Tactical Goggles (TL8). Nonfogging ballistic goggles with a tough polycarbonate lens. They grant Nictitating Membrane 5. $100, neg. LC4. ===Glasses=== Unlike goggles, glasses protect against impacts and splashes, but not dust, gas, or submersion in liquids. Sunglasses (TL5). Sunglasses became commercially available at TL5. Doctors prescribed tinted lenses for “weak eyes,” claiming that certain childhood diseases made their patients sensitive to sunlight. Sunglasses protect the eyes with DR 1. $50, neg. LC4. Sunglasses (TL6). Ray-Bans were issued to aviators in the 1930s to protect against high-altitude glare and instrument-panel reflections. A trendy mirrored coating becomes available circa 1950 (TL7). Polarized sunglasses give Protected Vision against bright ordinary light and DR 1 over the eyes. $10, neg. LC4. Ballistic Sunglasses (TL8). Modern battlefield sunglasses, designed to protect against a shotgun blast. They give Protected Vision against bright ordinary light and DR 4 for the eyes. $35, neg. LC4. ===Miscellaneous Bits and Pieces=== These items protect very specific body parts from certain types of injury. Cup (TL7). A plastic guard that gives the groin DR 2 vs. crushing (DR 1 vs. other damage), only from the front. Also grants +2 to knockdown rolls for groin hits. $20, neg. LC4. Mouthguard (TL7). A form-fitted plastic mouthpiece worn to protect the jaw and teeth. Gives +1 to knockdown rolls for face hits, but makes speech difficult (treat as Disturbing Voice, p. B132). $20, neg. LC4. Knee or Elbow Pads (TL8). Modern pads provide DR 3 for arm or leg joints when crawling, kneeling, or falling on hard surfaces (GM’s decision), or when the knee or elbow is struck in combat (2/6 protection for that limb). Per pair: $20, 0.5 lb. LC4. ==== SHIELDS ==== Shields were used in WWI trench warfare, and are still found in the hands of riot police and SWAT teams on the mean streets of the world’s metropolises. With the exception of riot officers, modern shield-bearers seldom use the Shield skill; they carry a shield strictly as cover (see p. B407). To interpret the table, see Shield Statistics (p. B287). Bulletproof Shield (TL6). A heavy steel shield used by some military and police throughout the first half of the 20th century. It may have firing ports, allowing the shieldbearer to use the shield for cover and as a rifle brace while prone. Riot Shield (TL7). A simple, medium-sized polycarbonate shield – often with “POLICE” stenciled across the front. Entry Shield (TL8). A heavy shield deployed by a SWAT team when entering a building. It’s made to withstand gunfire, and uses materials similar to trauma plates (p. 67). Some models have mounts for lights or video displays on the front, or even steps that let the shield function as a stepladder for scaling walls. ===Shield Table=== ==SHIELD (DX-4, or other Shield at -2)== ^ TL ^ Shield ^ DB ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ DR/HP ^ LC ^ | 6 | Bulletproof Shield | 2 | $300 | 30 | 10/80 | 4 | | 7 | Riot Shield | 2 | $60 | 7.5 | 7/40 | 4 | | 8 | Medium Entry Shield | 2 | $1,200 | 17 | 12/40 | 4 | | 8 | Large Entry Shield | 3 | $1,400 | 22 | 12/60 | 4 | ===Portable Cover=== Too heavy to be used as shields, these portable devices provide useful cover from specialized threats. Explosives Blanket (TL7). A 4’x6’ piece of flexible ballistic armor, used to contain an explosion if a bomb can’t be removed. Subtract its DR from the bomb’s damage roll. It’s sometimes used as portable cover for multiple SWAT officers. DR 25. $1,000, 45 lbs. LC4. Radiation Blanket (TL8). Identical to the explosives blanket (above), but also offers protection against radiation-scattering “dirty bombs.” It provides PF 3 (see Radiation Protection, p. B436) to those exposed. $2,000, 90 lbs. LC4. ====ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION==== At TL5, technology greatly enhances man’s ability to operate in and explore deadly environments – especially underwater. At TL6-8, it also gives him towering infernos, speeding vehicles, poison gas, and biological weapons, spurring him to invent defenses against those dangers as well. ===Air Masks (TL5)=== An air mask consists of a facemask or a mouthpiece equipped with a filter or a regulator. All varieties must be fitted correctly in order to form an airtight seal. Early rubber masks are shaved to fit with a knife and then sanded smooth. Modern ones come in specific sizes. At TL5-7, an air mask muffles the user’s voice; a listener must make a Hearing roll to understand him. This does affect radio communication. At TL8, masks often have built-in voice amplifiers and radio adapters that negate the need for this roll. All air masks take three seconds to put on, one second to remove. ===Gas Masks (TL5)=== A gas mask uses “negative pressure”: the wearer sucks in clean air through the filter medium. Weight includes a replaceable filter ($25, 0.5 lb.). Gas Mask (TL5). A heavy leather hood fitted with glass lenses and a primitive smoke or dust filter. Gas Mask (TL6). Many models have a separate belt- or chest-mounted filter connected to the mask by a hose. Severing the vulnerable hose (-2 to hit) exposes the wearer to the environment. Gas Mask (TL7). This mask includes fittings for drinking from a canteen or a water pack without unmasking. Gas Mask (TL8). In addition to canteen fittings, modern masks include a voice amplifier and an adapter for using a radio while masked. Some have tinted lenses, providing Protected Vision against bright ordinary light. ===Gas Mask Table=== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 5 | Gas Mask | eyes, face | 2 | $100 | 8 | 4 | [1, 2] | | 6 | Gas Mask | eyes, face | 2 | $100 | 4 | 4 | [1, 3] | | 7 | Gas Mask | eyes, face | 2 | $200 | 3.5 | 4 | [1, 3] | | 8 | Gas Mask | eyes, face | 2 | $250 | 2 | 4 | [1, 3] | Notes: * [1] Gives Filter Lungs, Immunity to Eye and Nose Irritants, and No Sense of Smell/Taste. * [2] Gives Tunnel Vision (p. B151). * [3] Gives No Peripheral Vision (p. B151). ===SCBA Masks (TL7)=== Self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) uses “positive pressure”: it expels air from a tank, keeping contaminants from entering the mask. Tests have shown that firefighters can breathe through SCBA even when floating face-down in water (beyond this, a malfunction is likely). The pioneers of SCBA were WWII firefighters. The SCBA mask has since become standard gear for fire and rescue personnel, who typically use it with a small air tank (p. 74). SCBA Mask (TL7). A basic mask and regulator. SCBA Mask (TL8). A mask with a spare “buddy hose” to share with another air mask, a HUD-style air gauge, and an alarm that sounds five minutes before the air tank expires. It also has a voice amplifier and an adapter for using a radio while masked. ===SCBA Mask Table=== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 7 | SCBA Mask | eyes, face | 2 | $200 | 5 | 4 | [1] | | 8 | SCBA Mask | eyes, face | 2 | $400 | 4 | 4 | [1] | Notes: * [1] Gives Doesn’t Breathe (while the air tank holds out), Immunity to Eye and Nose Irritants, No Peripheral Vision (p. B151), and No Sense of Smell/Taste. ===Scuba Masks (TL7)=== Reliable self-contained underwater breathing apparatus (formerly abbreviated SCUBA, but “scuba” today) is another WWII-era innovation. The standard “mask” is actually a tank-mounted regulator and mouthpiece with a separate diving mask (p. 71). This is a typical “open-circuit” system; bubbles are detectable on the surface. Scuba Mask (TL7). The traditional scuba mask has a demand-only regulator, meaning it only provides air when the diver sucks on the mouthpiece. Full-Face Mask (TL7). The “FFM” completely covers the face in a positive-pressure environment, allowing the diver to use an underwater communicator (p. 40). It is more comfortable for lengthy dives, is less likely to be knocked off, and provides air even if the diver is unconscious. Scuba Mask (TL8). The TL8 mask includes a spare mouthpiece for sharing air in an emergency – and possibly a HUD-style air gauge that connects to wireless equipment such as a dive computer or a wrist-mounted depth gauge. Full-Face Mask (TL8). A lightweight FFM with all the bells and whistles of a TL8 scuba mask (above). ===Scuba Mask Table=== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 7 | Scuba Mask | eyes, face | 2 | $500 | 4 | 4 | [1] | | 7 | FFM | eyes, face | 2 | $1,000 | 6 | 4 | [1] | | 8 | Scuba Mask | eyes, face | 2 | $400 | 4 | 4 | [1] | | 8 | FFM | eyes, face | 2 | $1,000 | 2 | 4 | [1] | Notes: * [1] Gives Doesn’t Breathe (while the air tank holds out), Immunity to Eye and Nose Irritants, No Peripheral Vision (p. B151), and No Sense of Smell/Taste. ===Hard-Hat Diving Gear (TL5)=== In the 1830s, Augustus Siebe perfected “closed” diving dress: a helmet sealed to a waterproof suit and fitted with controlled intake and outlet valves for air. This is still basic equipment for the modern “hard-hat” diver, who’s tied to the surface by air lines. Hard-hat gear makes diving about as safe as being underwater can be; the dangers aren’t so much inherent in the hardware as in the environment. Most diving jobs are construction, salvage, and rescue jobs that would be difficult and dangerous even on land. When performing a risky activity underwater in diving dress, roll against Diving Suit (p. B192). Most failures mean a job-specific hazard such as a punctured hose or suit, a fouled line, or a broken helmet. Hard-hat diving isn’t a solo activity. It requires a trained crew of handlers on the surface. Before the 1940s, most air pumps were operated manually by two or more pumpers. In addition, at least one line-tender is needed to keep the air hose and ropes from fouling. Paranoid adventurers should be encouraged to dwell on the thought of treachery topside! Closed-Dress Rig (TL5). A brass helmet with portholes, a rubberized canvas suit, and lead-soled shoes. Air is delivered from the surface by a hand-powered compressor ($1,000, 300 lbs.), via 200’ of hose on a reel ($500, 25 lbs.). At TL6, the rig includes an intercom, and no manual compressor is needed, as most ships have an air compressor aboard. $4,000, 500 lbs. LC4. Hard-Hat Rig (TL8). A modern salvage suit with weights and helmet, plus a reel with 200’ of hose ($1,000, 25 lbs.). $10,000, 120 lbs. LC4. ===Diving Suit Table=== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 5 | Closed-Dress Suit | full suit | 6/2 | $2,500 | 175 | 4 | [1] | | 8 | Hard-Hat Suit | full suit | 6/2 | $9,000 | 95 | 4 | [1] | Notes: * [1] Suit only. Use DR 6 for the head, DR 2 for everything else. Gives Doesn’t Breathe (while the pump is working), Immunity to Eye and Nose Irritants, No Sense of Smell/Taste, and Tunnel Vision (p. B151). ===Air Tanks (TL6)=== Air tanks connect to an air mask (pp. 72-73). Those described below include valves, fittings, carrying harness, etc. Tanks may be filled with a variety of compressed breathing gases – including ordinary air, pure oxygen, and oxygen-helium-nitrogen “trimix” – but for simplicity’s sake, these rules ignore the differences and assume that skilled users have the right mix. Tank duration supposes a mostly inactive adult; assume that a tank lasts twice as long for a child under 12 years of age. Stress and heavy exertion greatly reduce textbook duration; a rookie firefighter uses up his air far more quickly than does an old hand. Subtract a minute from duration for each FP expended and for each failed Fright Check. When using these tanks for scuba diving, divide duration by the local pressure. Divide by 2 at 33’ depth, by 3 at 66’, by 4 at 100’, and so on. See Pressure (p. B435) for details. Small Tank: Duration is 12 minutes (TL6), 22 minutes (TL7), or 45 minutes (TL8). $200, 15 lbs. LC4. Medium Tank: Duration is 22 minutes (TL6), 45 minutes (TL7), or 90 minutes (TL8). $400, 25 lbs. LC4. Large Tank: Duration is 45 minutes (TL6), 90 minutes (TL7), or 3 hours (TL8). $600, 35 lbs. LC4. ===Climate-Controlled Clothing (TL6)=== Heated clothing appears at TL6; true personal climate control, at TL7. Simple systems rely on phase changes, heat exchangers, or evaporative cooling to keep the wearer’s body temperature at a safe level. These must be “recharged” after a few hours – often by dunking them in either warm or cold water. Complex systems use a capillary network in an undergarment to circulate water or coolant. These require electricity but work for as long as the batteries hold out. The systems below extend one or both ends of the normal human comfort zone of 35°F to 90°F (see Temperature Tolerance, p. B93). This alters the temperatures at which Cold (p. B430) and/or Heat (p. B434) apply. Systems that extend the hot end of the zone also negate extra FP costs in hot weather (see Fatigue Costs, p. B426). Some suits under Environment Suits (see below) include climate control. The suit statistics include the cost and weight of the climate-control system, and the system runs off the suit’s power supply. Heated Clothing (TL6). An electrically heated bodysuit adds 60° to the cold end of the comfort zone. Without power, it counts as winter clothing. It runs off external power indefinitely – or batteries, at TL8. $550, 6 lbs., M/8 hrs. LC4. Climate-Control System (TL7). Adds 60° to both ends of the comfort zone. It contains 3 quarts of water, a quart of which can be used as drinking water without reducing effectiveness. $2,500, 15 lbs., 4¥S/8 hrs. LC4. Cooling System (TL8). A phase-change or evaporative cooling vest that adds 30° to the hot end of the comfort zone for 4 hours. “Recharged” by soaking it in ice-cold water for 15 minutes. $200, 5 lbs. LC4. ===Environment Suits (TL7)=== These suits protect against dangerous atmospheres and other threats. Safe use of much of this equipment requires a specialized Environment Suit skill (p. B192). Anti-G Suit (TL7). This outfit helps a pilot tolerate the “G-forces” of high acceleration and rapid maneuvers. It typically covers the legs and lower abdomen, and uses air or water to limit blood flow away from the brain. This provides +3 to HT rolls to resist high accelerations (p. B434). It’s often worn with a fireproof suit (below). Biohazard Suit (TL7). A bulky, hermetically sealed suit worn for protection from chemical spills and plagues. It cannot pass for clothing. It’s worn with an air mask or an SCBA (pp. 72-73), which fits completely under the suit. It’s incredibly hot – triple FP losses while suited-up. At TL8, advanced versions (x2 cost) have a special lining that effectively blocks low-level radiation, providing PF 2.5 against gamma or beta radiation; see Radiation Protection (p. B436). It uses the NBC Suit skill. Clean Suit (TL7). A disposable paper suit (with booties, gloves, and hood) used in a “clean room,” or during forensic evidence collection or surgical operations. Investigators commonly wear a paper facemask – or optionally, an air mask (pp. 72-73) – to avoid inhaling dried blood or fecal matter. It uses the NBC Suit skill. Dry Suit (TL7). A baggy, waterproof fullbody suit that keeps the wearer dry while diving. It resists thermal shock effects in cold water (see Cold, p. B430), but the diver must wear proper clothing beneath it to protect against the cold. A dry suit is loose-fitting enough to accommodate a stylish tuxedo underneath... Fireproof Suit (TL7). A fire-resistant jumpsuit worn by race-car drivers, pilots, forest firefighters, and SWAT men for short-term flame protection. NBC Suit (TL7). A disposable quilted suit with a charcoal lining that protects against radioactive fallout and poisonous gases. It quickly loses its seal in a wet environment, and must be stored in an airtight container. After 72 hours at most, it’s no longer reliable protection. It uses the NBC Suit skill. Space Suit (TL7). The “intravehicular” space suit of the Apollo missions – that is, the suit used inside the spacecraft. It consists of several layers of neoprene and nylon, along with a pressure bladder, biomedical attachments, a tightfitting cap equipped with headphones and mike, and a clear polycarbonate helmet. It uses the Vacc Suit skill. Space Suit, EVA (TL7). This is the Apollo “extravehicular activity” (EVA) space suit. It’s essentially the intravehicular suit (above) with several additional features, including a liquid-cooled climate-control system (p. 74), an outer protective shell, a life-support backpack (duration is 7 hours), and a short-range radio. It uses the Vacc Suit skill. Turnout Gear (TL7). A modern firefighter’s outfit: coat, trousers, gloves, and hood (for other gear, see Footwear, pp. 68-69, Headgear, pp. 69-70, and Air Masks, pp. 72-73). The suit absorbs water if it gets wet (up to twice normal weight!), which provides an extra DR 5 versus burning damage. If any burning damage penetrates this DR, though, double it – the water turns to steam inside the suit, and the firefighter can’t feel the heat until it’s too late! ===Biomedical Sensors (TL7)=== This rig tracks the wearer’s blood pressure, cardiopulmonary activity, oxygen saturation, and other vital functions. It can be remotely monitored over a communications system, and gives medics a +1 (quality) bonus to Diagnosis. Added to armor or suit: $2,000, 2 lbs., 2¥XS/24 hrs. LC4. Some suits under Environment Suits (pp. 74-76) include this system. Its cost, weight, and power requirement are included in the suit statistics. ===Environment Suits Table=== TL Armor Location DR Cost Weight LC Notes | 7 | Anti-G Suit | full suit | 0 | $5,000 | 6 | 4 | | 7 | Biohazard Suit | full suit | 1* | $500 | 8 | 4 | [1, 2] | | 7 | Clean Suit | full suit | 0 | $100 | 1 | 4 | [3] | | 7 | Dry Suit | full suit | 1* | $1,000 | 6 | 4 | | 7 | Fireproof Suit | full suit | 4/1* | $200 | 4 | 4 | [4, 5] | | 7 | NBC Suit | full suit | 1* | $150 | 3.5 | 4 | [1, 2, 5] | | 7 | Space Suit | full suit | 2 | $2,000,000 | 80 | 4 | [2, 6] | | | + Space Helmet | head | 2 | +$5,000 | +5 | 4 | [7] | | 7 | Space Suit, EVA | full suit | 2 | $2,000,000 | 180 | 4 | [2, 8] | | | + Space Helmet | head | 3 | +$25,000 | +10 | 4 | [9] | | 7 | Turnout Gear | full suit | 5/2* | $1,500 | 12 | 4 | [4] | | 7 | Wetsuit | full suit | 1* | $200 | 3 | 4 | | 8 | Bomb Disposal Suit | full suit | 20/5* | $10,000 | 65 | 3 | [10] | | | + Visor | eyes, face | 10 | +$200 | +3 | 3 | Notes: * [1] Uses NBC Suit skill. Provides the Sealed advantage if worn with an air mask (pp. 72-73). * [2] Suit’s DR applies only against burning or corrosion damage. * [3] Gives +4 HT when dealing with disease-ridden victims; see Contagion (p. B443). * [4] Use the higher DR against burning damage only. * [5] Concealable as or under clothing. * [6] Uses Vacc Suit skill. Biomedical sensors (see above) allow remote monitoring of vital signs, giving +1 to Diagnosis skill when examining the wearer. Worn with its helmet and connected to an air supply, the suit gives Doesn’t Breathe, Protected Smell, Sealed, and Vacuum Support. * [7] Provides Filter Lungs, Protected Hearing, Protected Smell, and Protected Vision – and Radio, while the mike and headset are plugged in. Also gives the No Peripheral Vision disadvantage (p. B151). * [8] As note [6], with the addition of a climate-control system (p. 74) and a life-support pack that gives Doesn’t Breathe for 7 hours when the helmet is worn. * [9] As note [7], but the Radio is self-contained. * [10] Split DR: Use the first, higher DR against attacks from the front; use the second, lower DR for attacks from all other directions. This is torso DR; head is DR 7, limbs are DR 5. Wetsuit (TL7). A neoprene or similar suit, it counts as winter clothing in cold water and provides a small amount of protection. Bomb Disposal Suit (TL8). A modern ballistic suit, worn by bomb-disposal technicians. It fully encapsulates the wearer in bulletproof material – except for the hands, which are totally unprotected. This allows the bomb tech to work without being hampered by gloves. Some are fitted with a climate-control system (p. 74). === Rebreathers (TL7) === Whereas conventional scuba gear releases exhaled gases as a stream of bubbles, a rebreather captures these gases in a “counterlung” or breathing bag, where a chemical absorbent removes the CO2, and then mixes and circulates them with gases from air tanks. Such a “closed-circuit” system produces no telltale bubbles. Shallow-water rebreathers use pure oxygen, and are dangerous below 30’ (see The Bends, p. B435). Advanced deep-diving rebreathers use a mixed-gas system to avoid problems with the bends, allowing deeper dives. Rebreathers are comparatively complicated. The GM may opt to treat their use as a specialty of the Scuba skill. Scuba (Closed-Circuit) defaults to normal Scuba at -4; the default in the other direction is only -2. Early Rebreather (TL7). A WWII-era oxygen scrubber – complicated, finicky, and poorly understood. Duration is 1.5 hours. Rebreather (TL7). A shallow-water rebreather. Duration is 4 hours. Advanced Rebreather (TL8). A modern mixed-gas rebreather. Duration is 4 hours. Rebreather Table ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 7 | Early Rebreather | eyes, face | 2 | $2,000 | 30 | 4 | [1] | | 7 | Rebreather | eyes, face | 2 | $3,500 | 30 | 4 | [1] | | 8 | Advanced Rebreather | eyes, face | 2 | $7,000 | 45 | 4 | [1] | Notes: * [1] Gives Doesn’t Breathe (while the air tank holds out), Immunity to Eye and Nose Irritants, No Peripheral Vision (p. B151), and No Sense of Smell/Taste. ===== STEALTH AND CAMOUFLAGE ===== There’s more to staying safe than thick armor and fireproof underwear. Often, the best defense is not to be detected! ==== CAMOUFLAGE ==== Camouflage – from the French camoufler, meaning “to disguise” – is a smoke-and-mirrors operation. It’s also highly technical, culminating in digitally generated patterns on infrared-suppressing clothing at TL8. To spot a camouflaged person, an observer must win a Quick Contest of Vision or Observation skill (p. B211) vs. his target’s Camouflage skill (p. B183). For hidden equipment, roll the same Contest but use the Camouflage skill of whoever deployed the camouflage. === Camouflage Clothing (TL6) === Camouflage is often a tradeoff. A pattern may be excellent at close range but ineffective at long range. It may blend into one type of terrain but draw unwanted attention in another. Historically, armies and intelligence services have spent millions of dollars to find the right pattern for all-around use. Commercially available patterns sold to hunters are often more effective than military ones in highly specific environments, but sacrifice general utility. Simple Camouflage (TL6). The most common variety of camouflage is khaki, feldgrau, olive drab, or something similar. It gives +1 (quality) to Camouflage skill. Clothing can have such a color or pattern at no extra cost. LC4. Basic Camouflage (TL7). A pattern appropriate to the terrain gives +2 (quality) to Camouflage in that terrain – but -1 in other terrain and -2 in highly contrasting terrain (e.g., arctic camouflage in the jungle). Camouflage clothing at TL7+ incorporates dyes that mask or absorb light in the near-infrared wavelengths, too, providing +1 to Camouflage vs. observers relying on technological Night Vision or Infravision. Most recent military camouflage falls into this category: the USMC’s digital MARPAT, the U.S. Army’s woodland pattern, Vietnam-era “tigerstripe” for jungle warfare, etc. Costs 100% of clothing cost. LC4. Advanced Camouflage (TL8). The best camouflage is highly optimized for one extremely specific terrain – “snowy deciduous forest,” “autumn hardwood forest,” “marshy bottomland,” etc. – and may even include 3D components such as die-cut texturing. It gives +3 (quality) to Camouflage in the intended terrain but -2 almost everywhere else. Examples include the products of top commercial manufacturers; e.g., Realtree, Predator, and Mossy Oak. Costs 200% of clothing cost. LC4. Reversible Camouflage (TL8). Two different patterns – or one pattern and one normal color – can be printed on opposite sides of clothing, allowing a hunter or a soldier to switch patterns as he moves between terrain types. To find the price, total the additional cost; e.g., two advanced patterns add 400% to clothing cost. LC4. === Camouflage Net (TL6) === A net covered with real or faux foliage. It works like any camouflage pattern, providing a bonus to the Camouflage skill in the right terrain. One net covers about 25 square yards. A simple camouflage net costs $20; more advanced designs have their usual effect on cost. 8 lbs. LC4. === Ghillie Suit (TL6) === This is a shaggy camouflage suit designed to break up the human outline. Users often attach bits of local foliage. Under ideal circumstances – in particular, when there’s plenty of vegetation to lurk in – it can make the wearer nearly invisible. The basic suit gives +3 (quality) to Camouflage if it’s similar to the terrain in which it’s being used (equivalent to advanced camouflage, see above). Veteran hunters, snipers, and scouts normally customize their suits for further effectiveness; this requires a Camouflage roll. Increase the suit’s bonus by the margin of success, to a maximum total bonus of +8. If a team is working together to modify ghillie suits, the person with the best Camouflage skill may roll once for everyone. Regardless of quality, a ghillie suit gives -1 to Camouflage rolls in non-matching terrain and -2 in highly contrasting terrain. A ghillie suit is hot and heavy. Treat it as an overcoat for the purposes of Fatigue Costs (p. B426). $500, 12 lbs. LC4. ==== STEALTH ==== Systems that suppress the user’s heat or scent “signature” are also available. They can be used alone or with camouflage. === Infrared-Suppressing Poncho (TL8) === A heavy fabric treated with dyes that block infrared (IR), with preformed slots to allow heat to escape. It gives +2 (quality) to Camouflage vs. thermographs and other Infravision. A poncho in a simple camouflage pattern (p. 76) is $500, 6 lbs. LC4. A ghillie suit can have IR-suppressing technology built in for an extra $500 without increasing weight. === IR Camouflage Net (TL8) === This is a bigger version of the IR-suppressing poncho (above), plus a system of support poles. One net covers about 25 square yards. A net in a simple camouflage pattern (p. 76) is $800, 100 lbs. LC4. === Scent Masking (TL8) === This clothing treatment works like a sealed chemical protection suit in reverse: instead of keeping chemicals out, it prevents chemicals from leaving. The result is -4 to all Tracking attempts to follow the wearer wholly or partly by scent. Scent-masking technology is common on commercial hunter’s outfits and an option for most other clothing. Costs 200% of clothing cost. LC4. ===== ARMOR ===== Armor is very useful in combat. A single sword blow or bullet can incapacitate or kill you . . . but armor might give you a second chance. Your armor’s Damage Resistance, or DR, subtracts directly from the damage inflicted by your enemies’ weapons. Armor requires no skill to use – you just wear it! (Exception: Certain TL7+ armor types require Environment Suit skill, p. 192.) Effective armor is heavy, though. Its weight can hinder you (see Encumbrance and Move, p. 17), reducing your Dodge – and also your Parry, if you use fencing weapons, Judo, or Karate. A swashbuckler who relies on agility to avoid injury might choose light or no armor! (As a guideline, your Dodge, Block, or Parry – and preferably two or all three of these – should be at least 12 if you plan to go unarmored.) The best armor is expensive, too. You probably won’t be able to afford it without lots of Wealth! Armor is more important in some periods than in others. Before TL4, it’s a lifesaver. Warriors who expect to go into battle should wear the heaviest armor they can afford. On the other hand, few fighters wear metal armor in a city or on the road: it’s just too heavy and uncomfortable. At TL4, armor declines in importance as firearms become common: anything that can stop a musket ball is too heavy to wear. Except for heavy cavalry, few soldiers or adventurers wear more than a pot helm and breastplate. At TL5-6, armor all but disappears – although TL6-7 infantry still wear a steel pot helmet to protect against bursting shell fragments. At TL7-9, this trend reverses, as lightweight, bullet-resistant synthetics (such as Kevlar) appear and gradually improve. In some TL10+ backgrounds, armor might be vital. In others, weapons can penetrate anything, and a good Dodge – or shooting first – is the best defense. ==== ARMOR TABLES ==== Three armor tables appear below: one for low-tech armor (TL0-5), one for high- and ultra-tech armor (TL6+), and one for armoring mounts. Each item on the tables includes an article of light, common clothing to wear underneath – or padding, if this is usual for the armor (e.g., mail includes cloth padding under the chain). The statistics already reflect this; you do not have to buy clothing or padding separately, or account for its DR and weight. The tables give the following information for each item of armor: TL: The tech level at which the armor is commonly available. Armor: The item’s name. Location: The area the armor protects on a humanoid wearer. Individual locations are skull (top of the head), face (the face, excluding the eyes), neck, eyes, arms, hands, torso (the abdomen and chest), groin, legs, and feet. Limbs covers the arms and legs, but not the hands or feet. Head covers skull, face, and eyes. Body is neck, torso, and groin. Full suit is everything but the head. DR: The amount of Damage Resistance the item gives. Subtract this from any blow that strikes the armored location. For instance, if you’re wearing a DR 6 corselet and are hit in the torso for 8 points of damage, only 2 points penetrate and affect you. Some armor has a split DR; e.g., “4/2.” This means DR varies by location or by type of attack; see the notes for that piece of armor. “*” means the armor is flexible. Flexible armor is easier to conceal or wear under other armor, and quicker to don or remove, but it is more vulnerable to blunt trauma damage. “F” means the DR only protects against attacks from the front. Cost: The item’s price, in $. “K” is thousands; “M” is millions. Weight: The item’s weight, in pounds. LC: The item’s Legality Class; see Legality Class (p. 267). Notes: Many items have special features or restrictions; see the notes after each table. Some advanced armor has built-in features that effectively grant the wearer advantages. ==== Low-Tech Body Armor ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 0 | Fur Loincloth | groin | 1* | $10 | neg. | – | [1] | | 0 | Fur Tunic | torso | 1* | $25 | 2 | – | [1] | | 1 | Bronze Breastplate | torso | 4F | $400 | 20 | 3 | [2] | | 1 | Bronze Corselet | torso, groin | 5 | $1,300 | 40 | 3 | | | 1 | Cloth Armor | torso, groin | 1* | $30 | 6 | – | [1] | | 1 | Leather Armor | torso, groin | 2 | $100 | 10 | 4 | | | 1 | Leather Jacket | arms, torso | 1* | $50 | 4 | – | [1] | | 2 | Light Scale Armor | torso | 3 | $150 | 15 | 4 | | | 2 | Lorica Segmentata | torso | 5 | $680 | 26 | 3 | | | 2 | Mail Hauberk | torso, groin | 4/2* | $230 | 25 | 3 | [3] | | 2 | Mail Shirt | torso | 4/2* | $150 | 16 | 4 | [1, 3] | | 2 | Scale Armor | torso, groin | 4 | $420 | 35 | 3 | | | 3 | Double Mail Hauberk | torso, groin | 5/3* | $520 | 44 | 3 | [3] | | 3 | Heavy Steel Corselet | torso, groin | 7 | $2,300 | 45 | 3 | | | 3 | Steel Breastplate | torso | 5F | $500 | 18 | 3 | [2] | | 3 | Steel Corselet | torso, groin | 6 | $1,300 | 35 | 3 | | | 3 | Steel Laminate Plate | torso, groin | 5 | $900 | 30 | 3 | | | 4 | Buff Coat (Leather) | body, limbs | 2* | $210 | 16 | 4 | | ==== Low-Tech Limb Armor ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 1 | Bronze Armbands | arms | 3 | $180 | 9 | 4 | | | 1 | Bronze Greaves | legs | 3 | $270 | 17 | 4 | | | 1 | Cloth Sleeves | arms | 1*| $20 | 2 | – | [1] | | 1 | Heavy Leather Leggings | legs | 2 | $60 | 4 | 4 | | | 1 | Heavy Leather Sleeves | arms | 2 | $50 | 2 | 4 | | | 1 | Leather Leggings | legs | 1* | $40 | 2 | – | [1] | | 1 | Leather Pants | legs, groin | 1* | $40 | 3 | – | [1] | | 1 | Studded Leather Skirt | groin, legs | 3/2* | $60 | 4 | – | [3] | | 2 | Mail Leggings | legs | 4/2* | $110 | 15 | 3 | [3] | | 2 | Mail Sleeves | arms | 4/2* | $70 | 9 | 3 | [3] | | 2 | Scale Leggings | legs | 4 | $250 | 21 | 3 | | | 2 | Scale Sleeves | arms | 4 | $210 | 14 | 3 | | 3 | Heavy Plate Arms | arms | 7 | $1,500 | 20 | 3 | | | 3 | Heavy Plate Legs | legs | 7 | $1,600 | 25 | 3 | | | 3 | Plate Arms | arms | 6 | $1,000 | 15 | 3 | | | 3 | Plate Legs | legs | 6 | $1,100 | 20 | 3 | | ==== Low-Tech Headgear ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 1 | Bronze Helmet | skull, face | 3 | $160 | 7.5 | 4 | | 1 | Bronze Pot-Helm | skull | 3 | $60 | 5 | 4 | | 1 | Cloth Cap | skull | 1* | $5 | neg. | – | [1] | | 1 | Leather Cap | skull | 1* | $32 | neg. | 4 | | 1 | Leather Helm | skull, face | 2 | $20 | 0.5 | 4 | | 2 | Legionary Helmet | skull, face | 4 | $150 | 6 | 3 | | 2 | Mail Coif | skull, neck | 4/2* | $55 | 4 | 3 | [3] | | 3 | Barrel Helm | skull, face | 6 | $240 | 10 | 3 | [4] | | 3 | Face Mask | face | 4 | $100 | 2 | 3 | | 3 | Greathelm | skull, face, neck | 7 | $340 | 10 | 3 | [4] | | 3 | Pot-Helm | skull | 4 | $100 | 5 | 4 | ==== Low-Tech Gloves ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 1 | Cloth Gloves | hands | 1* | $15 | neg. | – | [1] | | 1 | Leather Gloves | hands | 2* | $30 | neg. | – | | 2 | Gauntlets | hands | 4 | $100 | 2 | 4 | | 3 | Heavy Gauntlets | hands | 5 | $250 | 2.5 | 3 | ==== Low-Tech Footwear ==== | 0 | Sandals | feet | 0 | $25 | 0.5 | – | [1, 2] | | 1 | Shoes | feet | 1* | $40 | 2 | – | [1] | | 2 | Boots | feet | 2* | $80 | 3 | – | [1] | | 3 | Sollerets | feet | 4 | $150 | 7 | 3 | ==== Low Tech Notes ==== * [1] Concealable as or under clothing. * [2] Partial coverage: sandals give DR 1 to the underside of the foot, while breastplates protect only from the front. * [3] Split DR: use the lower DR against crushing attacks. * [4] Helmet gives wearer the No Peripheral Vision disadvantage (p. 151) while worn. ==== High-Tech Body Armor ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 6 | Flak Jacket | torso | 7 | $500 | 20 | 3 | | 7 | Frag Vest | torso, groin | 5/2* | $350 | 9 | 3 | [1] | | | + Plate Inserts | torso | +20 | +$300 | +15 | 3 | | 8 | Ballistic Vest | torso | 8/2* | $400 | 2 | 3 | [1, 2, 3] | | 8 | Tactical Vest | torso, groin | 12/5* | $900 | 9 | 2 | [1, 3] | | | + Trauma Plates | torso | +23 | +$600 | +9 | 2 | | 9 | Ballistic Suit | body, limbs | 12/4* | $1,000 | 6 | 3 | [1, 2, 3] | | 9 | Tactical Suit | full suit | 20/10* | $3,000 | 15 | 2 | [1, 3, 4, 5] | ==== High-Tech Gloves and Footwear ==== | 7 | Reinforced Boots | feet | 5/2 | $75 | 3 | – | [2, 6] | | 9 | Assault Boots | feet | 12/6 | $150 | 3 | 4 | [3, 6] | | 9 | Ballistic Gloves | hands | 8/2* | $30 | neg. | 4 | [1, 2, 3] | ==== High-Tech Headgear ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 6 | Gas Mask | eyes, face | 2 | $100 | 4 | 4 | [7] | | 6 | Steel Pot | skull | 4 | $60 | 3 | 4 | | 7 | Frag Helmet | skull | 5 | $125 | 3 | 4 | | | + Visor | eyes, face | 1 | +$25 | +1.5 | 4 | [8] | | 8 | Ballistic Helmet | skull | 12 | $250 | 3 | 3 | [3] | | | + Visor | eyes, face | 10 | +$100 | +3 | 3 | [3, 8] | ==== Environment Suits and Headgear ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 7 | NBC Suit | full suit | 1 | $150 | 3.5 | 4 | [5, 9] | | 7 | Space Suit | full suit | 2 | $2,000,000 | 225 | 4 | [4, 9, 10] | | | + Space Helmet | head | 3 | +$25,000 | 10 | 4 | [7, 11] | | 9 | Battlesuit | full suit | 70/50 | $80,000 | 150 | 1 | [3, 4, 6, 12] | | | + Helmet | head | 70/50 | +$10,000 | 15 | 1 | [3, 6, 7, 11] | | 9 | Combat Hardsuit | full suit | 50/30 | $10,000 | 30 | 2 | [3, 4, 5, 6] | | | + Helmet | head | 18/12 | +$2,000 | 5 | 2 | [3, 6, 7, 11] | | 9 | Space Armor | full suit | 50/30 | $20,000 | 45 | 2 | [3, 4, 6, 10] | | | + Helmet | head | 40/30 | +$3,000 | 7 | 2 | [3, 6, 7, 11] | | 9 | Vacc Suit | full suit | 6* | $10,000 | 25 | 4 | [3, 4, 10] | | | + Vacc Helmet | head | 6 | +$2,000 | 5 | 4 | [3, 11] | ==== High-Tech Notes ==== All TL7+ armor electronics and powered systems (including the battlesuit) work for (TL - 6) ¥ 6 hours before they require recharging or refueling. * [1] Split DR: use the first, higher DR against piercing and cutting attacks; use the second, lower DR against all other damage types. * [2] Concealable as or under clothing. * [3] DR increases with TL. After the TL of introduction, consult the following table: ^ TL ^ DR Multiplier ^ | Intro | x1 | | Intro+1 | x1.5 | | Intro+2 | x2 | | Intro+3 | x3 | | Any higher | x4 | * [4] Biomedical sensors allow remote monitoring of vital signs, giving +1 to Diagnosis skill when examining the wearer. In addition, the suit is climate-controlled. * [5] Requires NBC Suit skill – but at TL9+, the suit does not limit DX. Worn with a mask or a helmet with note [7], the combination provides the Sealed advantage. * [6] Split DR: use the higher DR only if the attack strikes the torso (if body armor), skull (if headgear), or underside of the foot (if footwear). * [7] Provides Filter Lungs, Protected Smell, and Protected Vision – but before TL9, it also gives the No Peripheral Vision disadvantage. * [8] Provides Protected Vision. * [9] Suit’s DR applies only against burning or corrosion damage. * [10] Requires Vacc Suit skill. If worn with its helmet, the suit gives Doesn’t Breathe (for 12 hours), Protected Smell, Sealed, and Vacuum Support. * [11] Provides Protected Hearing, Protected Vision, and Radio. At TL9+, add Absolute Direction (Requires Signal), Infravision, Night Vision 9, and (TL - 8) levels of Telescopic Vision. TL9+ helmets also include a head-up display (HUD) compatible with “smartgun” electronics (p. 278). Battlesuits add Hyperspectral Vision and Laser Communication. * [12] Requires Battlesuit skill. Gives Lifting ST +10, Striking ST +10, and Super Jump 1. Add +5 to Lifting ST, +5 to Striking ST, and +1 to Super Jump per TL past TL9. With its helmet in place, it also grants Doesn’t Breathe (for 12 hours), Protected Smell, Sealed, and Vacuum Support. Do not count suit weight toward encumbrance! ==== Horse Armor (Barding) Face Masks ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 1 | Leather & Cloth | face | 2 | $40 | 3 | 4 | [1] | | 2 | Mail | face | 4/2* | $60 | 7 | 3 | [1, 2] | | 2 | Scale | face | 4 | $200 | 12 | 3 | [1] | | 3 | Plate | face | 5 | $200 | 12 | 3 | [1] | ==== Horse Armor (Barding) Head/Neck Armor ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 2 | Leather & Cloth | neck, skull | 2 | $80 | 4 | 4 | | 2 | Mail | neck, skull | 4/2* | $100 | 15 | 3 | [2] | | 2 | Scale | neck, skull | 4 | $320 | 20 | 3 | | 3 | Plate | neck, skull | 5 | $330 | 18 | 3 | ==== Horse Armor (Barding) - Partial Barding ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 1 | Leather & Cloth | torso | 2F | $260 | 12 | 4 | | 2 | Mail | torso | 4/2F* | $440 | 20 | 3 | [2] | | 2 | Scale | torso | 4F | $480 | 60 | 3 | ==== Horse Armor (Barding) - Full Barding ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 2 | Leather & Cloth | torso, groin | 2 | $345 | 30 | 4 | | 3 | Mail | torso, groin | 4/2* | $670 | 59 | 3 | [2] | | 3 | Plate | torso, groin | 5 | $1,650 | 90 | 3 | ==== Horse Armor (Barding) - Leggings ==== ^ TL ^ Armor ^ Location ^ DR ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 3 | Plate | legs | 5 | $400 | 20 | 3 | [3] | Notes: * [1] Gives mount the No Peripheral Vision disadvantage (p. 151) while worn. * [2] Split DR: use the lower DR against crushing attacks. * [3] Weight and cost are per pair of legs protected. Each pair gives -1 to Move. ===== WEARING ARMOR ===== There are some social and practical restrictions on wearing armor. ==== Reaction Penalty ==== A fully armored individual is someone who is expecting trouble... or looking to make trouble. He is unlikely to receive a warm welcome! In a noncombat situation, armor that covers the face or entire head gives -2 to reaction rolls. Nonconcealable armor with DR 2+ anywhere else (except the hands or feet) gives -1, or -2 if it isn’t flexible and covers the torso. These penalties are cumulative: plate armor and a full helm would give you -4! However, there is no reaction penalty if the NPC making the reaction roll recognizes the wearer’s need or right to wear armor in the situation. Examples of socially acceptable armor include a knight on campaign or at a tourney; an astronaut wearing a vacc suit in space; or a soldier, paramedic, or journalist wearing body armor in a war zone. ==== Donning and Removing Armor ==== It takes three seconds per piece to don or remove most armor. It takes 30 seconds per piece for vacc suits or battlesuits, except for their helmets. Exception: TL8+ flexible armor with insert panels and all TL9+ nonflexible armor have some form of “quick release” mechanism to drop the insert panel or let the user step out of the armor in only one second. ==== Combining and Layering Armor ==== You can freely combine multiple pieces of armor that don’t cover the same hit location, but you can only layer armor if the inner layer is both flexible and concealable. Add the DR of both layers. Wearing an extra layer of armor anywhere but on the head gives -1 to DX and DX-based skills. ===== SHIELDS ===== Shields are very valuable in low-tech combat, but almost worthless against firearms. Historically, they were little used after the rise of firearms (TL4) – with the exception of plastic riot shields. In some SF settings, though, they make a comeback as force shields. You normally wear a shield or force shield strapped to one arm. Your shield hand can’t wield a weapon (preventing you from using two-handed weapons), but it can still carry an item. A shield helps all your active defense rolls (Block, Dodge, and Parry) with no particular effort. You can also use a shield actively to block; see Blocking (p. 375). ==== Shield Statistics ==== The following statistics apply to shields: TL: The tech level at which the shield is commonly available. Shield: The kind of shield. DB: Defense Bonus. The bonus the shield gives to all of your active defense rolls (see Defending, p. 374) against attacks from the front or shield side, even if you have no skill at all with a shield. This applies only against melee or muscle-powered ranged weapons – not against firearms, unless you use the optional Damage to Shields rule (p. 484). Cost: The shield’s price, in $. Weight: The shield’s weight, in pounds. DR/HP: The shield’s DR and HP if using the optional Damage to Shields rule. This DR protects the shield, not the wielder. LC: The shield’s Legality Class; see Legality Class (p. 267). ===Shield Table=== == CLOAK (DX-5, Net-4, or Shield (any)-4) == ^ TL ^ Shield ^ DB ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ DR/HP ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 1 | Light Cloak | 1 | $20 | 2 | 1/3 | – | [1] | | 1 | Heavy Cloak | 2 | $50 | 5 | 1/5 | – | [1] | == SHIELD (DX-4, or other Shield at -2) == ^ TL ^ Shield ^ DB ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ DR/HP ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | 0 | Light Shield | 1 | $25 | 2 | 5/20 | 4 | [2, 3, 4] | | 0 | Small Shield | 1 | $40 | 8 | 6/30 | 4 | [2, 3, 4] | | 1 | Medium Shield | 2 | $60 | 15 | 7/40 | 4 | [2, 3, 4] | | 1 | Large Shield | 3 | $90 | 25 | 9/60 | 4 | [2, 4] | == SHIELD (FORCE) (DX-4, or other Shield at -2) == ^ TL ^ Shield ^ DB ^ Cost ^ Weight ^ DR/HP ^ LC ^ Notes ^ | * | Force Shield | 3 | $1,500 | 0.5 | 100/– | 3 | [3, 5] | Notes: * [1] Can be used offensively to entangle; see Cloaks (p. 404). * [2] Can be used offensively with a shield bash (see the Melee Weapon Table) or shield rush (see Slam, p. 371). At TL2+, you can give your small, medium, or large shield a spike to increase damage: add $20 and 5 lbs. * [3] Also available as a buckler. You can ready a buckler in one turn and drop it as a free action, just like a weapon – but it always occupies one hand, and it does not allow a shield rush. Use Shield (Buckler) instead of regular Shield skill. No effect on statistics. * [4] At TL3+, iron shields are available but uncommon: x5 cost, x2 weight, +3 DR, and x2 HP. At TL7+, plastic riot shields (made of Lexan, etc.) have x1/2 weight but otherwise identical statistics. Shield composition never affects DB. * [5] Worn on the wrist, leaving the hand free. DR is hardened (treat as one level of the Hardened enhancement, p. 47).